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Discussion Starter #1
Last night I tried an experiment. I took off the metal lig that came with my Buescher C-Mel piece and bound the reed onto it with teflon plumber's tape. Very interesting. Smoother, less grainy sound. (Makes my intonation problems more obvious.) A bit easier to play, perhaps?

I'll probably try binding it at different heights along the reed, just to see.
 

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hmmm interesting.
looking forward to hear your results.
any chance to record or youtube this test?
 

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Last night I tried an experiment. I took off the metal lig that came with my Buescher C-Mel piece and bound the reed onto it with teflon plumber's tape. Very interesting. Smoother, less grainy sound. (Makes my intonation problems more obvious.) A bit easier to play, perhaps?

I'll probably try binding it at different heights along the reed, just to see.
Have you checked that the mouthpiece table is flat? It is possible that the metal lig is incapable of effecting a seal & the plumber's tape could be acting as a sealant.
I am cynical of the effects of ligatures....they are, in my view, simply a system to hold the reed flat & firmly against the table.
If lig A is better than lig B then lig B was not conforming to the basic requirement of a ligature.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Er, um... a player far more experienced than I recently recommended to me that I practice a long time before playing in public. And he's absolutely right. I'm not ready to show off anything. But when I get a little less embarrassing, I will.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
A: I believe the table is very slightly concave. This is, I have read, not uncommon, and apparently deliberate on the part of some manufacturers.

B: I'm not suggesting the plumber's tape is better, but it's definitely different. I suspect it has something to do with the way the reed's own resonance frequencies get superimposed on the instrument's frequencies.
 

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A: I believe the table is very slightly concave. This is, I have read, not uncommon, and apparently deliberate on the part of some manufacturers.

B: I'm not suggesting the plumber's tape is better, but it's definitely different. I suspect it has something to do with the way the reed's own resonance frequencies get superimposed on the instrument's frequencies.
Or, even more likely, an air leak.
Why not try again after coating the table with vaseline?
Or, even better in my opinion, just ditch the old C mouthpiece.....even working at optimum they are ghastly. :)
 

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I use a staple gun - you just gotta decide on which mouthpiece and stay with it
(for the rest of your life).
I just have this vision of a sax player, with staple gun ready in shoulder holster, for that quick "Oops, my reed has split" change... :bluewink:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
<snip>
Or, even better in my opinion, just ditch the old C mouthpiece.....even working at optimum they are ghastly. :)

Gee, Cap'n., I really like the way it sounds, especially in the first octave. The second octave can get a little bit like a honk, but I'm assuming that's more me than the horn or the piece, and I'm working to see how much body I can get into those notes. One of the reasons I got a C-Mel is that I like the classic sound of it that you hear on 20's recordings. It's a bit plaintive (like the oboe I used to play) but I like it. (I read recently that Eddie Condon said Traumbauer's C-Mel "sounded like a girl saying Yes.")
 

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I just have this vision of a sax player, with staple gun ready in shoulder holster, for that quick "Oops, my reed has split" change... :bluewink:
Better than a couple of galvanised nails don't y' know. Although pretty well guaranteed to split the new reed with the staple gun.....the experts recommend stapling from side to side rather than lengthways. :)
 

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metaphorce - for a ridiculously small amount of dollars you can get a modern version of the old C mouthpiece - and for an extra $10 a staple-free lig to fit - every C-sax player should have one in the case, along with some hair oil and spats, b.t.w. no connection to seller whatsoever...

By Babbitt, even [rolleyes], only a .068 tip opening, but should be a great improvement on both the playability and taste of the 20's ones. First player to buy one MUST do a review here !

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/C-Melody-Sax-Saxophone-Mouthpiece-Great-Deal-/160575276362
 

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Discussion Starter #16
metaphorce - for a ridiculously small amount of dollars you can get a modern version of the old C mouthpiece - and for an extra $10 a staple-free lig to fit - every C-sax player should have one in the case, along with some hair oil and spats, b.t.w. no connection to seller whatsoever...

By Babbitt, even [rolleyes], only a .068 tip opening, but should be a great improvement on both the playability and taste of the 20's ones. First player to buy one MUST do a review here !

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/C-Melody-Sax-Saxophone-Mouthpiece-Great-Deal-/160575276362
What's the best way to measure the tip opening? I used a set of feeling gauges, but is there a better way?
 

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metaphorce - make a cup of coffee, and put the following search string into google...

mouthpiece measure tip opening

It'll pull out threads from here, and loads more besides. Even YouTube videos.

I've been thinking about buying (or making) a gauge for a while, they can set you back more than the cost of a really good mouthpiece, but here is one for $60 -

http://www.pmwoodwind.com/instruments.cfm?c=3&instrumentid=977

And at $35 this looks quite interesting...

http://www.musicmedic.com/catalog/products/tool-mp100.html
 

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Discussion Starter #18
metaphorce - make a cup of coffee, and put the following search string into google...

mouthpiece measure tip opening

It'll pull out threads from here, and loads more besides. Even YouTube videos.

I've been thinking about buying (or making) a gauge for a while, they can set you back more than the cost of a really good mouthpiece, but here is one for $60 -

http://www.pmwoodwind.com/instruments.cfm?c=3&instrumentid=977

And at $35 this looks quite interesting...

http://www.musicmedic.com/catalog/products/tool-mp100.html

Thanks for the tip (opening).
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Accurate callipers & a small sheet of glass.....
Ah, got you, table held flat to a flat surface. Actually, using glass (or a really flat bench anvil?) I suspect the feeler gauges might work well. I was trying to measure to the actual reed, and I soon realized I couldn't do anything accurate that way.

Thanks.

Any opinions or recommendations about Rico Graftonite or Metalite MPs? So many folks have suggested tenor MP's, and I'm looking for a way to investigate the concept at very low cost, which the Rico's definitely are. It would be particularly helpful to get some hints on the 3 facings for these, and the three chamber-sizes on the Graftonites.

Thanks for all the help, guys.
 
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