[Shooshie]

My apologies for starting yet another thread about Legere Reeds. I’ve spent the last 2 hours reading previous threads, but I just do not see exactly what I’m trying to find. So here’s the direct approach:

I use approximately a Vandoren 3 on alto, tenor and soprano. I say approximately, because I rework them for weeks to get them to where they play just right. I used to make my own reeds from raw tubes of cane, but that takes even more time. One has to keep the “factory” going year round, because some are always coming up and others always fading away.


I’m getting kind of old, now, and I simply do not have the time, inclination or motivation to spend that much time on reeds, especially since most of my playing is for my own purposes. I haven’t played a concert in a long time. So, I’m interested to see if I can make Legere Reeds work for me. If I can get them to work with the sound and response I want, this would save me a tremendous amount of work and time that could be spent practicing instead of playing “reed sculptor.”

So, for a Vandoren 3, what do you suggest in a Legere? Don’t worry; I’m not going to come back to anyone and say “but you said xyz, and now I spent the money and it doesn’t work.” I’m a big boy. Just tell me what your experience has been, and I’ll be much obliged to you!
Alto
Tenor
Soprano

Thanks, everyone,
— Shooshie

 

[Shooshie]

One more thing: if it makes any difference, and it probably does, I’m working on some new concertos. Brant, Waignein Rhapsody, and Claude Smith Fantasia. After nearly 40 years on soprano, this is my motivation to return to alto. These are new works for me, regardless of how long they’ve been available. So, the reed must respond well in all ranges, up to a double F, and it must not buzz like a banshee. Again, thanks.
— Shoosh

 

[Pete Thomas]

I would go for 2.75

Legere do a return policy for different strengths. (But check they still do that before taking my word).

 

[Shooshie]

Thank you, Pete!

 

[Shooshie]

Let me ask another question about Legere Reeds: can you work on them like cane?
And if you were going to buy more than one strength “just in case,” would you go up or down? 3.0 or 2.5?

 

[Eulipion2]

Let me ask another question about Legere Reeds: can you work on them like cane?
And if you were going to buy more than one strength "just in case," would you go up or down? 3.0 or 2.5?

I've used Legeres for nearly 20 years, and I've never tried reworking them, but I have taken advantage of the exchange program several times (up to 5 per year per person, within 30 days of purchase, with proof of purchase.) But they do state explicitly that they won't accept altered reeds.

Exchanges take a couple weeks to get back to you, so if I'm trying something new I usually buy a few different strengths (yeah, a little pricy), and exchange the ones that don't work for the same strength as the one that does. Or I keep them all so that I have a range to use when I try other mouthpieces.

If you're buying a 2.75, I'd probably go with a 3.0 as well. They have a strength comparison chart HERE.

I previously used the Classic (classical) and Studio Cut (jazz), but now I'm exclusively on Signature Cut.

On my Raschers and Caravans (very close tip openings) I tend to hover around a 2.75-3.25 on all five of my horns. It's been a while since I looked, but I know I play 3.0 on 'nino, 2.75 on soprano, 3.0 or 3.25 on bari, and either 2.75 or 3.0 for alto and tenor.

On my Selmer Concept sop and alto I go a little softer (2.5-2.75), and my scroll shank Larry Teal alto and tenor IIRC I go a little softer as well (2.25-2.5, usually for jazz), but it's been a while since I last played them.

Hope that helps some, but your mileage may vary.

 

[JohnMarkPainter]

The exchange policy is suspended!
I just got bitten by that

I would go for 2.75

Legere do a return policy for different strengths. (But check they still do that before taking my word).

 

[Eulipion2]

The exchange policy is suspended!
I just got bitten by that

At least they're extending the window, so just keep that receipt around. Sucks that you have to wait until an unspecified future date, but at least the option will (eventually) be available.

 

[Eulipion2]

From the Legere website:

To ensure the health and safety of staff and customers, Légère is temporarily suspending its Exchange Program. If you would like to exchange a reed purchased in the past 30 days, please keep your receipt to exchange your reed at a later date. We will honour all valid exchanges as soon as it is possible.

We are sorry for the inconvenience this will cause but thank you for understanding our position in this difficult time.

If have questions regarding this policy please Contact Us.

 

[JohnMarkPainter]

Here is the quote:

COVID-19 Exchange Policy Update
To ensure the health and safety of staff and customers, Légère is temporarily suspending its Exchange Program. If you would like to exchange a reed purchased in the past 30 days, please keep your receipt to exchange your reed at a later date. We will honour all valid exchanges as soon as it is possible.

We are sorry for the inconvenience this will cause but thank you for understanding our position in this difficult time.

 

[LostConn]

So, for a Vandoren 3, what do you suggest in a Legere?

Everyone in this thread seems to be assuming that you are referring to the Legere Signatures, so I will as well, but be advised that the standard or "Classic" Legere reeds have different strength profiles, so the Signature numbers are not transferable to them. Also, understand that I am not trying to match a particular strength of cane reed; I've let my experience with the Signatures themselves determine the results.

The Signature 2.75 works well for me on soprano with several different classical mouthpieces (Selmer Concept, Vandoren SL3, Yanagisawa SC120; the SL5 requires something softer), although lately I have been using a Silverstein Alta Classic 3.0 instead. I reviewed this reed in another thread; the alto reed performed poorly for me, but the soprano reed has been much better.

On tenor, I typically use a Signature 2.5 with a Vandoren TL5. I don't think that's close to a blue box 3 in hardness, but I've always preferred softer reeds on tenor than on the other horns.

On alto, I've found that my choice of strength depends on the mouthpiece. A D'Addario Reserve D155, which is fairly resistant, can't handle more than a Signature 2.75 and still be comfortably playable for me, and even that can seem a little too hard at times. On the other hand, on a Yanagisawa AC150, which is a very free-blowing classical piece, a Sig 3.0 works better, and I've been toying with the idea of trying a 3.25 -- a harder Signature than I've ever used on alto before -- to keep down the brightness, although I worry that the low register response would suffer. A Selmer Concept is sort of in-between, but I think a 2.75 works best.

I've found that the Signatures tend to be weaker in the palm keys and altissimo than some other synthetic reeds, so I'll be interested to see how you like them in that respect.

Finally, I don't think Signatures respond well to being adjusted, but I haven't put in a lot of time experimenting, so I wouldn't say that it's outright impossible to sand them satisfactorily.

 

[Shooshie]

One thing for sure about adjusting Legere Signature Reeds: one mistake, and there goes a whole wad of cash. I always have had (and still do) hundreds of Vandoren to work with. Screw up one and it’s not a problem. But these Legeres... Better know what you’re doing and do it with a steady hand!

I guess I’m talking about the Legere Signature Reeds. I didn’t know there was a difference until today. I’ve never ordered one. I guess I’ll start with a 2.75 and go up from there.

Thank you, all who responded!

Shooshie

 

[Pete Thomas]

Although Mauro of Reedgeek assured me that a reedgeek worked on a Legere, my experiments in that regard failed.

I also found that as suspected a reedclipper does not work, in case you wanted to make a reed harder. What possibly might work is to very very carefully trim back the tip using a sharp blade and following the tip profile carefully.

This comes with a huge disclaimer that I must not be blamed if your reed is ruined.

 

[JohnMarkPainter]

Very fine sandpaper works.
I also have this kit that works (it is VERY slow)
https://www.earspasm.com/reeds-and-teeth/reed-plaque-clear-with-finishing-cloth-set

Although Mauro of Reedgeelk assured me that a reedgeek worked on a Legere, my experiments in that regard failed.

I also found that as suspected a reedclipper does not work, in case you wanted to make a reed harder. What possibly might work is to very very catefullt trim back the tip using a sharp blade and following the tip profile carefully.

This comes with a huge disclaimer that I must not be blamed if your reed is ruined.

 

[JohnMarkPainter]

I posted this elsewhere...but the boiling water trick works very well for reducing strength gradually.
There are a couple of YouTube videos.
You just boil some water, dip the reed in for one second And cool and play test.
Apparently it keeps weakening more with each dip.

I had bought three Legere to try thinking I had the exchange policy and they were all slightly stiff.
Sandpaper got me started and then I found that boiling water trick

 

[JohnInDenver]

I posted this elsewhere...but the boiling water trick works very well for reducing strength gradually.
There are a couple of YouTube videos.
You just boil some water, dip the reed in for one second And cool and play test.
Apparently it keeps weakening more with each dip.

I had bought three Legere to try thinking I had the exchange policy and they were all slightly stiff.
Sandpaper got me started and then I found that boiling water trick

Thanks for mentioning this. I have a couple Legere reeds that are about to get a hot bath!

 

[Shooshie]

I haven’t ordered the reeds yet, but if I were to work on them, it would be just the very tip of the tip. Change it from a squared edge to a sloped edge, same as I do on my reeds. That’s something you can do with sandpaper, Dutch rush, or a knife. I use a knife. I don’t recommend it; it takes a lot of practice, and you’ll ruin a lot of reeds before you learn how to do it, but if you persevere and get the skill of it, it can sure help the response of reeds.

 

[OteroPaso]

Hello.

In my experience in Alto Sax with Legere Signature (this is important, as LostConn has said because strength in Legeres is not the same in Signature than in Studio Cut or Classic), in my experience, I was saying, you must add a quarter to the strength you are using in Vandoren traditional reeds (blue box). If you are using 3.0 in Vandoren, the Legere Signature must be 3.1/4.

I insist, this is just my experience. On the other hand, there are many other factors with high influence in the final right decission, mainly the mouthpiece, of course.

You seem to be an experimented saxophonist, so you could make a mistake one time with your first Legere (I did, and more than one time actually) but with this fail experience you surely are perfectly capable to do the right decission with the second attempt.

Regards.

 

[Shooshie]

It’s been a few weeks now, and I just want to thank everyone for recommending these ideas for me. I’m going to buy a Legere Signature reed for alto and for Soprano at 3 ¼. That should tell me which way to go for the future. If it’s too hard, I’m going to try the boiling trick. (One-second dip) What have you got to lose at that point, anyway?

I still use a huge stash of reeds that are probably older than most of you. 35 years in some case. They play well when I go through the break-in period and work on them daily for a couple weeks. That means I haven’t bought reeds in a long time, except for a couple dozen boxes for all 4 saxes about 5 years ago from Woodwind/Brasswind. Any favorite dealers I should know about?

Thanks,
—Shooshie

 

[JohnMarkPainter]

Don’t be in too big of a hurry to trim the tip.
It won’t be like trimming cane