What are you trying to "solve" by altering venting? What kind of MPC are you using? reeds? there's not "one correct" venting chart (although somebody posted a factory spec venting chart not long ago, search for true tone soprano key height)
thanks for reply. I am trying to have an alto in its perfect playing condition). Perfect in terms of tone, intonation and resistance. I have Vandoren a27, selmer soloist style d, stm 6.
I just expect that some experienced player who is satisfied with his tt and its venting will share some measurements (for example left hand - B, A, G, right hand F, E).
I have that chart that you've mentioned and it's nearly perfect (i had nearly come to the same results by myself...) but for some notes - my a1 is flat 10cent. And i;ve already cut all the cork on the G - body octave. Maybe i should replace the body octave pad for one that is thinner? Or are all the other key heights too high maybe?) excuse my english..
the chart is in 1/32ths. If you try to vent by the chart measuring in milimeters you're 25% off on the too open side (1/32" is roughly 0.8mm)
on the G issue, is the G pearl way below the A pearl when both ae closed? Meaning, it's kind of like the feel of a modern yamaha or other makes, where your left hand ring finger is loer than the middle finger? Perhaps the G key needs to be bent a little for get a correct vent height
Trust Jicaino as he is the expert on these.
Another factor to consider is that these early horns often need to be set at a certain height to enable the G key octave pip changeover to work and the 1+1 Bb to operate. If the keywork is set too open, there will be play in the keywork at some point causing lost motion and clicking. Even more so on sopranos.
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