[JoAnnPeeler]

It there any chance that this Brilhart Tonalin can be repaired and the repair will have some durability?

 

[greatlakeswinds]

It certainly CAN be repaired. The question is whether or not it is worth doing so, and I'd say probably not given the value of that mouthpiece. True, it is 'vintage', but it isn't the most valuable of vintage Brilharts. You could probably find another one of that vintage and tip opening in roughly the same condition (minus the missing chunk) for $100-150, which is less than the repair will cost. Considering that it might not play as well once repaired, and it will always have a weak spot, I'd go that route. That's all assuming you don't have the missing chip. If you do, you MIGHT be able restore it to reasonable playability yourself by carefully super gluing it back in place.

 

[Jazz Is All]

Or get Joe V. to do it for you. He'll only charge $150 and leave it looking and playing like something else. What I can't say, but definitely something other than that.

 

[pontius]

I probably would not bother with that unless you have the missing piece.

 

[1saxman]

I don't know of anyone using a white epoxy to match a Tonalin although there is a commonly-available white 2-component epoxy designed for plastics repair that would be my choice. Personally I would do the build-up myself, rough it in with files and send it to a re-facer for completion - this would cost about $100 altogether. There is another way for 'museum-quality' restoration but it requires a donor mouthpiece or piece of one for the Tonalin material. You simply file off a quantity of Tonalin 'dust' and mix it with clear epoxy, using this amalgam to construct the build-up, then do the shaping. It usually takes a few attempts before the right consistency/color is achieved - you don't actually apply it to the mouthpiece until it tests out okay. Same cost.

Hmmm; I think I hit on something - combine the two methods by mixing Tonalin dust in with the white epoxy before adding the activator and mixing - this way you get the color right the first time.

So, with nothing really to lose, are you going for it?

 

[JoAnnPeeler]

I don't know of anyone using a white epoxy to match a Tonalin although there is a commonly-available white 2-component epoxy designed for plastics repair that would be my choice. Personally I would do the build-up myself, rough it in with files and send it to a re-facer for completion - this would cost about $100 altogether. There is another way for 'museum-quality' restoration but it requires a donor mouthpiece or piece of one for the Tonalin material. You simply file off a quantity of Tonalin 'dust' and mix it with clear epoxy, using this amalgam to construct the build-up, then do the shaping. It usually takes a few attempts before the right consistency/color is achieved - you don't actually apply it to the mouthpiece until it tests out okay. Same cost.

Hmmm; I think I hit on something - combine the two methods by mixing Tonalin dust in with the white epoxy before adding the activator and mixing - this way you get the color right the first time.

So, with nothing really to lose, are you going for it?

Okay, I'm trying to think this through. First of all I don't have a "donor" Tonalin piece to sacrifice. Of course, I'm not really interested in a museum quality restoration, but rather a relatively inexpensive way to get a tonalin blank suitable for refacing. I'm starting to think it may be better just to find a cheap and intact Tonalin and I can hold onto this piece. Who knows it may become a "donor" piece for a future restoration.

 

[pontius]

If it were a very rare or valuable piece it might be worth it, but I don't think it's worth the time or money unless you just enjoy the challenge of tackling it yourself. There is value in the experience. If you tackle it you should document it so it can be shared.

 

[turf3]

OP, it's not clear what your intentions are. Is this your current playing piece? Are you contemplating buying it to make a blank for refacing? If it's the first and you're happy with it, I'd say do the repair and don't worry if the color isn't a perfect match. If it's the second, I'd pass, UNLESS you want the satisfaction of restoring something to use. Certainly from a financial standpoint, especially if you are planning to reface it anyway, and especially especially if you plan to pay for refacing, the eventual value will never reach the cost, and these aren't really that rare or expensive. Yes, desirable openings in perfect condition are expensive, but a generic Tonalin in "meh" condition and needing a reface anyway can be had for pretty short money.

Personally I wouldn't grind it up for dust since you can approximate the color with other epoxy materials.

 

[Reet McVouty]

Once you fall under the "Tonalin" spell you're hooked. I took me a while to find one with the right tip opening and once I found it I've been playing it ever since.

 

[MojoBari]

If you like the facing it had on it, then there is risk that buying a replacement will be different. So the broken one could be measured and the facing copied over to the replacement. The broken one can be repaired with gray JB Weld. It can be repaired with color tinted acrylic but I have not been pleased with some of the acrylic repairs I have tried involving reed contact rails. Plus, you need to perform a test on the acrylic mix to see if the color matches reasonably well. More work for poorer repair performance.

 

[turf3]

If you like the facing it had on it, then there is risk that buying a replacement will be different. So the broken one could be measured and the facing copied over to the replacement. The broken one can be repaired with gray JB Weld. It can be repaired with color tinted acrylic but I have not been pleased with some of the acrylic repairs I have tried involving reed contact rails. Plus, you need to perform a test on the acrylic mix to see if the color matches reasonably well. More work for poorer repair performance.

Just the regular old grey JB Weld from the hardware? It's hard enough?

As to color matching, I guess really it becomes a purely aesthetic matter, as once the tip's been broken off and repaired pretty much all the "collector value" is gone anyway. And no one can see the tip of the piece when it's in your mouth, anyway.

Mojo, have you ever tried any of the white mineral filled epoxies? there is one called "Agilent Torr-seal" which is white, hard as Chinese arithmetic when it cures, and has excellent adhesive properties. It's probably wicked expensive but you're not going to use much of it anyway. I have repaired the white bite plate of a Brilhart Tonalin with good success. The color isn't a perfect match but I don't care anyway. I can't say how well it would work on a tip repair but my experience with it inclines me to believe it would work well. I think it would be harder when cured than regular grey JB Weld.

 

[turf3]

OP, I see that the amount broken off is really pretty small. You've got almost the entire original facing there. I'd definitely think it's worth repairing as a player, though collectible value is lost (and I don't care about that anyway).

 

[JoAnnPeeler]

OP, I see that the amount broken off is really pretty small. You've got almost the entire original facing there. I'd definitely think it's worth repairing as a player, though collectible value is lost (and I don't care about that anyway).

That was my thinking as well when I purchased the piece as-is for a song. However, if the repair wouldn't be durable I'm not sure it worth it.

 

[Grumps]

Yeah... don't buy things like this.

 

[MojoBari]

Just the regular old grey JB Weld from the hardware? It's hard enough?

As to color matching, I guess really it becomes a purely aesthetic matter, as once the tip's been broken off and repaired pretty much all the "collector value" is gone anyway. And no one can see the tip of the piece when it's in your mouth, anyway.

Mojo, have you ever tried any of the white mineral filled epoxies? there is one called "Agilent Torr-seal" which is white, hard as Chinese arithmetic when it cures, and has excellent adhesive properties. It's probably wicked expensive but you're not going to use much of it anyway. I have repaired the white bite plate of a Brilhart Tonalin with good success. The color isn't a perfect match but I don't care anyway. I can't say how well it would work on a tip repair but my experience with it inclines me to believe it would work well. I think it would be harder when cured than regular grey JB Weld.

I would try Torr-seal if I had some. But I'm not interested enough to spend $100 to try it.

 

[MojoBari]

Just the regular old grey JB Weld from the hardware? It's hard enough?

As to color matching, I guess really it becomes a purely aesthetic matter, as once the tip's been broken off and repaired pretty much all the "collector value" is gone anyway. And no one can see the tip of the piece when it's in your mouth, anyway.

Mojo, have you ever tried any of the white mineral filled epoxies? there is one called "Agilent Torr-seal" which is white, hard as Chinese arithmetic when it cures, and has excellent adhesive properties. It's probably wicked expensive but you're not going to use much of it anyway. I have repaired the white bite plate of a Brilhart Tonalin with good success. The color isn't a perfect match but I don't care anyway. I can't say how well it would work on a tip repair but my experience with it inclines me to believe it would work well. I think it would be harder when cured than regular grey JB Weld.

I would try Torr-seal if I had some. But I'm not interested enough to spend $100 to try it.

 

[lostcircuits]

If you are good friends with your dentist, try talking him/her into 3D printing the missing piece. Color matching would not be a problem either and it would be rather durable. But you gotta be really good friends with the dentist, or maybe he/she is a sax player?

 

[Grumps]

You just can't save every stray dog.

 

[JoAnnPeeler]

You just can't save every stray dog.

I've always had a soft heart -- especially for stray dogs. :bluewink:

 

[Grumps]

I kinda got that feeling. :lol: