Sax on the Web Forum banner

1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,033 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have recently bought a buescher true tone c-melody (its silver on the surface) from 1924. I'm looking for a way to clean it, but I dont find silver polish to be necessary. I just wonder if there are ways that can damage the surface? And which way is the best to clean it without using silver polish? It has some verdigris, and some wear.

Does anyone know how to clean/remove the smell from the original case?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,122 Posts
These two questions have been discussed at lenght in some threads here. You might want to use the search function to get all the different opinions and advice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,033 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
These two questions have been discussed at lenght in some threads here. You might want to use the search function to get all the different opinions and advice.
Thanks, but all I find is about serious polishing. I just want to get some dirt off it so it gets nice and clean. Can you send me a link if I have missed something? I was thinking of an easier way of cleaning, like detergent or something like that; do you know if it will work?
 

·
Distinguished SOTW Member, Forum Contributor 2007-
Joined
·
5,528 Posts
If the verdigris is green, I've found that WD40 will usual knock it down. If you have black silver tarnish, better grab some polish. You can also use Tarn-X on the black tarnish. But be very careful and try a very small area first. I've used it with great results on a silver Buescher C-mel myself. But your results may vary. And don't be so afraid of silver polish. Just do small areas at a time. And then go back of the whole thing with silver polishing cloth. Of course, if the tarnish is very light, just use the polishing cloth.
 

·
Distinguished SOTW Member
Joined
·
1,127 Posts
For verdigris, just use a rag and some vinegar.

For silver...if there is any decent amount of tarnish (black/grey) you need to use silver polish. There's nothing wrong with it...you just don't want to go to town on it with brasso or something extremely abrasive. Personally, I really don't like Tarn-X or dips...IMO they don't deliver any better results (and they're more likely to cause harm to the silver, and you!).

Soap and water is fine for cleaning excess grime off the sax.

Disclaimer...obviously all the keys need to be removed before slopping water about, as it will destroy your pads. Also, don't forget the springs are steel and will rust if they aren't thoroughly dried.

For wear...you can't really do anything. A layer of oxidation is natural, and actually protects any exposed brass (if you were thinking about polishing any bare brass areas). The only other option would be to have any worn areas spot plated. But spot plating is generally quite thin compared to the original plating...so if the wear is in a frequently touched/rubbed area, the plating would only be a temporary fix.

And as for the case, it depends what is causing the stink (mold or mildew?).

For better cleaning tips, it might be handy to post a picture of the sax.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,122 Posts
If the case is no too bad, I get good results with vaccuum cleaning, it, putting it in the sun, vaccuumming again, and then using the pet odor removing products from arm and hammer.
 

·
Distinguished SOTW Member/Technician
Joined
·
21,080 Posts
Whatever you use, make sure that ALL of the keywork is removed. Using any cleaning agent on an assembled horn can really make a playable horn, unplayable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,033 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the help, I would have posted some pictures of the sax so it would be easier to see what has to be done, but there's something wrong with my camera...:(

Does anybody know how to see if the pads are snap-in or just regular? What's the difference?
 

·
Distinguished SOTW Member/Technician
Joined
·
21,080 Posts
Snap in s have a center that looks like a domed resonator and standard pads (commonly) will be a rivet, rivet in a flat metal resonator or brown plastic domes.
 

·
Indistinguishable Resident Buescher Bigot and Foru
Joined
·
8,588 Posts
I have recently bought a buescher true tone c-melody (its silver on the surface) from 1924. I'm looking for a way to clean it, but I dont find silver polish to be necessary. I just wonder if there are ways that can damage the surface? And which way is the best to clean it without using silver polish? It has some verdigris, and some wear.

Does anyone know how to clean/remove the smell from the original case?
I've never been successful at getting a smelly case back to tolerable without replacing it, but you can try the dryer sheets. I just don't think they'll do much other than mask the odor a little so it smells like you just laundered something moldy....

As for the horn, a little Windex sprayed lightly on to a terry cloth or other very soft fabric will do nicely for light cleaning without scratching or leaving a film residue. Windex is largely just ammonia (NH3) and a little alcohol. You might be able to use another glass cleaner, but do check to make sure it doesn't contain a sulfer compound.

I wouldn't just spray the horn with it. The alcohol will dry out the pads and I really don't know what a good dose of ammonia will do to the pads/corks/felts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,033 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Snap in s have a center that looks like a domed resonator and standard pads (commonly) will be a rivet, rivet in a flat metal resonator or brown plastic domes.
Well, I have difficulties to know still...Can ask a friend to take a picture so any of you guys can see if they are snaps...Or is it possible to know just by removing them? How carefull should I be with removing the rivet/what ever it is in the center?
Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,033 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I've never been successful at getting a smelly case back to tolerable without replacing it, but you can try the dryer sheets. I just don't think they'll do much other than mask the odor a little so it smells like you just laundered something moldy....

As for the horn, a little Windex sprayed lightly on to a terry cloth or other very soft fabric will do nicely for light cleaning without scratching or leaving a film residue. Windex is largely just ammonia (NH3) and a little alcohol. You might be able to use another glass cleaner, but do check to make sure it doesn't contain a sulfer compound.

I wouldn't just spray the horn with it. The alcohol will dry out the pads and I really don't know what a good dose of ammonia will do to the pads/corks/felts.
I'll just have to put the case in the basement then :( But what is dryer sheets? It is very hard to translate it to Swedish, it could mean so many things here...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,122 Posts
Well, I have difficulties to know still...Can ask a friend to take a picture so any of you guys can see if they are snaps...Or is it possible to know just by removing them? How carefull should I be with removing the rivet/what ever it is in the center?
Thanks
Post the pictures and we will tell you if they are snap pads. Some of the old ones can be harder to pull out, but most of the times if there is damage it will be to the pad, not to the snap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,033 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I found a picture of a snap-in pad and I thought it looked similiar to the ones I have on my saxophone. Have anyone of you come to the conclusion weather it is a snap-in or not (the one in the picture above)? Thanks
 

·
Indistinguishable Resident Buescher Bigot and Foru
Joined
·
8,588 Posts
That looks for all the world like a Buescher Snap-In Pad (snaps).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,033 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
That looks for all the world like a Buescher Snap-In Pad (snaps).
YAY! Hmm...do you know the best place to buy snaps? I've found some pages but none seems to look excactly the same.
I have checked (with light) wich pads are leaking and I HAVE TO change approximately 10 pads, should I change all while im doing that or is it enought to do the ones that really needs it? And also, I just saw that one of the pads didn't have a snap, should I remove it and see if it is a snap-in or not?

Thanks!
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top