I was just wondering how often everyone on the forum gets their horn (s) repadded....
True, but I also have only had my Z for 8 months, and the modele 22 for a few days. I shouldn't have to change any pads for quite some time, I hope. But if I felt that they needed the new pads, I would pony up the cash for it.milandro said:well, I am pleased to read that you never change pads, on the other hand some of those pads which are normally closed might show earlier than others sign of wear, hardening or cracking before than the rest and might need occasional replacing. Enviroment conditions play also a big role here, humid and hot places or extremely dry ones might be just too much to keep pads forever. But most of the times, if properly mantained, they will last a very long time.....
The question was "reapdded". Which I understand as changing all the pads. I guess someone could do a full repad every ? years but if you maintain the instrument good then you shouldn't need a repad. Overall it *might* be cheaper to do a major repair once in a long time instead of smaller repairs more often, but on the other hand your instrument might not be as good as it could be all that time between repairs. So I think only some instruments need repadding, and only rarely an instrument will need re-reapdding.milandro said:I am pleased to read that you never change pads, on the other hand....
yes, but then your horn would deteriorate gradually and you would find playing harder towards the end of each period between major repairs.clarnibass said:The question was "reapdded". Which I understand as changing all the pads. I guess someone could do a full repad every ? years but if you maintain the instrument good then you shouldn't need a repad. Overall it *might* be cheaper to do a major repair once in a long time instead of smaller repairs more often, but on the other hand your instrument might not be as good as it could be all that time between repairs. So I think only some instruments need repadding, and only very rarely if ever an instrument will need re-reapdding.
Now I'm confused. I thought this is what I said :?SearjeantSax said:yes, but then your horn would deteriorate gradually and you would find playing harder towards the end of each period between major repairs.
Use a piece of cotton to clean the edge of the tone hole -- than put runyon pad formulakaplac said:Yeah, I'm kind of confused about this myself.
my yamaha no doubtly needs maintenence, the only weird thing is that it got knocked out of adjustment after about 7 months.
btw, does anyone know of a surefire way to unstick sticky keys permanently? I've tried all the methods around here and I havne't found one that doesn't wear off after a bit.
I know that when I re-pad, I spray Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant with 'Cerflon' on them before I install them. This lasts for years with great results! I know, it sounds hokey, but I've been experimenting with different products for years in my shop. I'm not afraid to think outside the box to please my customers. It also keeps them from drying out. If you have a collectable or sentimental horn that you keep stored, treat your pads with this, and put those silica gel packets from new shoe boxes(or other products) in the case with the horn. This will put your horn in a virtual time capsule and keep it from corroding. I have a YTS - 61 from 81' that is like the day I bought it. Plays fantastic, and even smells new.kaplac said:Yeah, I'm kind of confused about this myself.
my yamaha no doubtly needs maintenence, the only weird thing is that it got knocked out of adjustment after about 7 months.
btw, does anyone know of a surefire way to unstick sticky keys permanently? I've tried all the methods around here and I havne't found one that doesn't wear off after a bit.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Runyon-Pad-Form...ryZ47097QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItemkaplac said:Ok I will try that.
Any guesses as to whre I may obtain such dope?
More than likely because the technician did not (for whatever reason) attend to the underlying problems:rs1sensen said:...When I was playing a student Yamaha YAS-23, my horn would go in every 6 months, and require quite a bit of adjusting! ....
Generally speaking vintage instruments require more regular maintenance and TLC than new ones, unless they have had a superb "mechanical overhaul". After all they are the "senior citizens" of the saxophone world. The Conn set-screws (also called grub screws) do two things: They keep the pivot screw from turning and coming loose, and they get stuck and the ears of the tiny screw come off when you try to remove them. Hopefully it is more of the former than the latter in your case.rs1sensen said:I'm curious if I'll notice a difference in the repair schedule of the Conn 10M I recently bought, and if the Conn set-screws actually do anything.
Gordon, although my horn has been plagued by some of these issues, I've always considered them the fault of myself, and not my horn or my tech. I have a lot of confidence in the tech I let work on my horns. I didn't treat the instrument well, and hence, she required a lot more work than my "baby," the Selmer. As many student horns are, the Yamaha was beat to all heck.Gordon (NZ) said:More than likely because the technician did not (for whatever reason) attend to the underlying problems:
Not very level tone holes, sloppy pivot tubes on the stack keys, sloppy fit of stack key pivot rods in supporting posts, rather hard, unforgiving pads. These make adjustments difficult to achieve, and less reliable.
Good to know. You've qualified a lot of my "hunches" with the horn. I actually just replaced all of the set screws (most were missing), after I had a lot of work done on my horn, and of course added a small amount of oil on every one.jbtsax said:Generally speaking vintage instruments require more regular maintenance and TLC than new ones, unless they have had a superb "mechanical overhaul". After all they are the "senior citizens" of the saxophone world. The Conn set-screws (also called grub screws) do two things: They keep the pivot screw from turning and coming loose, and they get stuck and the ears of the tiny screw come off when you try to remove them. Hopefully it is more of the former than the latter in your case. Backing the screws out slightly and putting a drop of oil on the threads is a good idea when you first get one of these wonderful old "Naked Ladies".
John
Whatever turns you on.......:female: :tongue1: :wink:rs1sensen said:Nothing like an old naked lady! haha