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Discussion Starter #1
I just got my bari back from the repair shop and i noticed that it works well, but the middle and low E are so sharp when i play them. Does anyone know what is wrong? I cant find any leaks or stuck keys. Any advice?
 

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Distinguished SOTW Member/Forum Contributor 2009
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key height on the D is probably too high. Try this.

Play an E. SLOWLY SLOWLY depress the D key. At some point, the pitch will go flatter. Then it'll get stuffy and lose control. Then it'll become a D.

If there's some range where the key could be lowered, not be stuffy, have better control, but have the E sound a bit lower in pitch, ask your tech to lower the D key height somewhat. Its a cheap, easy fix for some pitch problems, particularly on bari (IME).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Is there any way i can fix it at home without visiting the tech? He was the one who caused this.
 

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Sorta, but you don't want to. Seriously, its not a big mistake for a tech to leave a key set too high. If you use the method I described above and decide that the key should be set a little lower, just go ask your tech. This is not a big deal, if that's the cause.

Try what I described and see if there's a range where you could have the D key set to fix the E pitch without stuffiness or a lack of stability.

D key height may not be the problem. You'll know that its not the problem if you try to slowly bring down the D key, but there is not a range where E comes into tuning but the note is still stable, strong, and not stuffy. If there's no room to set the D lower, either (a) the other keys are set uniformly too low (a bigger problem), or (b) the tone hole is in a slightly too high place on the body tube, or (c) you have some odd octave pip or mouthpiece mismatch. We can discuss those issues, and their cure, if the process above doesn't work. But fixing the D key height is really simple for a tech.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
This sucks, i have to drive another hour to get to the stupid tech that is probably just doing this to cause me to come back. Its not fair!!!
 

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This sucks, i have to drive another hour to get to the stupid tech that is probably just doing this to cause me to come back. Its not fair!!!
Thats pretty disrespectful..The tech has set it up to what would be a standard configuration, keys opening to a standard height, Im assuming they would have also played it, the fact you say it works well means at least they have done a decent job, however a specific note being sharp can be you, can be the instrument, can be the mpc, can be a lot of things, making a statement "the stupid tech" is not a very advisable response in a tech section of a forum..I encourage people to test play there instrument while there in my shop, so we can fine tune to suit them. Did you play the instrument in his repair shop, if so why did you not notice it then, if not why didnt you..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thats pretty disrespectful..The tech has set it up to what would be a standard configuration, keys opening to a standard height, Im assuming they would have also played it, the fact you say it works well means at least they have done a decent job, however a specific note being sharp can be you, can be the instrument, can be the mpc, can be a lot of things, making a statement "the stupid tech" is not a very advisable response in a tech section of a forum..I encourage people to test play there instrument while there in my shop, so we can fine tune to suit them. Did you play the instrument in his repair shop, if so why did you not notice it then, if not why didnt you..
Your right, i didnt mean it like that. I dont think all techs are bad. Maybe if i ask tomarrow and tell them my situation, they could fix it for free
 

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Your right, i didnt mean it like that. I dont think all techs are bad. Maybe if i ask tomarrow and tell them my situation, they could fix it for free
I believe they'll have no problem fixing it for you for free, but as simso pointed out already, you should always play your horn before you leave the repair shop.
 

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I would be very surprised if they charged you for it, I know I give 6 months unconditional warranty on an instrument if Ive done the service, I also give one year warranty on all repads this includes follow up tweaks adjustments to suit the player.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I would be very surprised if they charged you for it, I know I give 6 months unconditional warranty on an instrument if Ive done the service, I also give one year warranty on all repads this includes follow up tweaks adjustments to suit the player.
Thanks guys, i feel way better now. And again, i am sorry for saying that about the techs, it was my first experience with a tech and i was freaking out.
 

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I just got my bari back from the repair shop and i noticed that it works well, but the middle and low E are so sharp when i play them. Does anyone know what is wrong? I cant find any leaks or stuck keys. Any advice?
I have underlined and made bold four words in your sentence DChalo. Its not a dig at you personally, but Simso hit the nail on the head in his first post:

however a specific note being sharp can be you, can be the instrument, can be the mpc, can be a lot of things,
The tech would have no doubt test played the sax and using his set up its possible that the E wasnt sharp. So please dont rant about the tech, at least give him the chance to adjust your sax - For free of course. If he then says it was playing fine and its gonna cost you - by all means have a good rant about it.

I, like Simso and most other techs always prefer the customer to try out their horns before paying and taking them away, that way any minor adjustments can be done whilst the customer is on hand and he/she gets the best from his/her tech and goes away happy.
 

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i might add..... that you want to take the sax back to the tech after a week or two of playing after a rebuild. Time to check to see if the pads are siting well... and make sure no leaks have opened up. Get them to check the intonation of e while you are at it.
 

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You might be compensating.
It's not at all uncommon for a tech to spend days getting a full overhaul exactly spot on, and then finding that when the clients comes in to pick the horn up they have trouble getting the low notes.
This is obviously very disconcerting for the client, but it's not the horn - it's them.
As a horn begins to wear, and thus leak, you automatically compensate for it - you adjust your embouchure to play around the defects. Fix the defects and it can sometimes take a while for your embouchure to catch up.
In such cases I tell the client to take the horn away and give me a call after a week to let me know how it's going - and when they do they always say "It's great now...I must have blown it in"....

This might not be the case with your horn, but it's always worth calling the tech to let them know that you're having problems.

Regards,
 

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Grafton alto | Martin Comm III tenor
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i might add..... that you want to take the sax back to the tech after a week or two of playing after a rebuild. Time to check to see if the pads are siting well... and make sure no leaks have opened up. Get them to check the intonation of e while you are at it.
I agree, this is often par for the course. So while it's a pain you have another hours drive there and back, it is often an expected part of the overhaul process.
 

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It was very good of you to appologize to the techs here, but if you came into my shop with that attitude towards me I'd probably throw you out of my shop if you didn't calm down within about 10 seconds of me talking to you. I don't need or want customers that are nasty or unreasonable. We take pride in our work but we make mistakes. I don't charge for my mistakes or even for adjusting a horn after a repair to make it custom to a particular player. I also often repair things at no charge for good customers when it is their fault. I wouldn't be surprised that your tech will bend over backwards to help you out if you treat him/her with respect.

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #16
i might add..... that you want to take the sax back to the tech after a week or two of playing after a rebuild. Time to check to see if the pads are siting well... and make sure no leaks have opened up. Get them to check the intonation of e while you are at it.
Well it was nothing that required pads. I just needed a new screw, one of my springs snapped off, and i needed a new piece of felt.
 

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Grafton alto | Martin Comm III tenor
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Well it was nothing that required pads. I just needed a new screw, one of my springs snapped off, and i needed a new piece of felt.
Ah, this is different. After replacing a screw, a spring and a felt, the intonations changed radically. Only the felt could cause that.
 

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What were you doing to snap off a spring?

Did you ask for a general tune up?

If the work you requested had nothing to do with E then their would be no reason for the tech to check.

I am thinking there is more to this story then we have been told.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
What were you doing to snap off a spring?

Did you ask for a general tune up?

If the work you requested had nothing to do with E then their would be no reason for the tech to check.

I am thinking there is more to this story then we have been told.
I have never had this problem before though. Maybe the piece of felt he put for the low Bb is too big? Could that cause it?
 
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