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Indistinguishable Resident Buescher Bigot and Foru
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8,588 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a leaky tenor Strathon that I got from another SOTW member that assured me that this was so special a piece that it was worth the extra $50 over the going rate. Turns out that the "extra special" was a constant drone of a high-pitched whistle through the worn slider rod. I won't mention the seller (phgsaxdude) by name (oops!).

Thanks to a little help from Saxtripper I was able to figure out how to get the baffle and slider out without damaging anything. However, it's pretty clear that the hole that the rod goes through is worn.

Question: Has anyone ever successfully swedged this bit of the HR mouthpiece so that it's at least near airtight? I'm not looking for permanently "fixed position" epoxy or custom baffle solutions, I'd like to put the piece back in working order.

Thoughts?
 

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Indistinguishable Resident Buescher Bigot and Foru
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8,588 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
It appears to simply be a tight fit of the HR around the adjusting stem. No gasket or base for a gasket that I can see on either end.

I had one SOTW'er suggest dripping hot candle wax into the slider adjustment cavity around the stem. While that might work for awhile and it's certainly removable, it doesn't seem like it would be long-lived if you move the slider -- the wax will stick to the metal stem as tightly as the rubber.

Any thought on a material I might be able to inject with a hypodermic needle into the hole the slider stem passes through -- say a teflon or other compound that might stick to the rubber better than the metal stem?
 

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Distinguished SOTW Member/Mouthpiece Maker
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1,816 Posts
It appears to simply be a tight fit of the HR around the adjusting stem. No gasket or base for a gasket that I can see on either end.

I had one SOTW'er suggest dripping hot candle wax into the slider adjustment cavity around the stem. While that might work for awhile and it's certainly removable, it doesn't seem like it would be long-lived if you move the slider -- the wax will stick to the metal stem as tightly as the rubber.

Any thought on a material I might be able to inject with a hypodermic needle into the hole the slider stem passes through -- say a teflon or other compound that might stick to the rubber better than the metal stem?
Fill the slider cavity with RTV silicone, then once it sets, drill though it with a drill bit a little smaller than the stem (just push the bit through by hand or with a pin vice), then force the stem through the hole. This should give a compression fit that will seal.
 

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Indistinguishable Resident Buescher Bigot and Foru
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8,588 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Now there's a thought. Any particular thoughts on the appropriate RTV compound? There are quite a few of them.

Also need to find some sub-1mm drill bits....
 

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Distinguished SOTW Member/Mouthpiece Maker
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1,816 Posts
Now there's a thought. Any particular thoughts on the appropriate RTV compound? There are quite a few of them.

Also need to find some sub-1mm drill bits....
Drill bits, msc, probably ebay even? RTV I'm not sure -- any silicone sealant will function but if you want something food-grade, I see some MSDS reading in your future...
 

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Distinguished SOTW Member/Forum Contributor 2009
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4,507 Posts
what about covering the rod almost entirely (the exposed part once you assemble it on the baffle and on the slider) in heat shrink teflon tubing? get the smallest diameter from Music Medic or other vendors such as JL Smith or something.
 

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Distinguished SOTW Member/Forum Contributor 2009
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4,507 Posts
Perhaps it's just missing some packing grease... or gasket material. I don't think any engineer would rely on hard rubber for bushing surface. If it was indeed assembled that way, the HR would have abraded the rod. A thick synt grease (again, Music Medic Ultimax synt pivot and rollers lubricant) could provide years of leak free service.
 

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Distinguished SOTW Member
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Not knowing the clearance between the rod & it's bush perhaps even fine greased cotton whipped around the rod, if the clearance is sufficient.
It worked on 1930s Aston Martin water pumps.
 

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Indistinguishable Resident Buescher Bigot and Foru
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Discussion Starter #12
The rod is exactly 1mm and appears to be a very hard spring steel. There appears to be no gasket, and if there was grease in it, it's LONG gone. Here's some pics of the disassembled piece.
 

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Indistinguishable Resident Buescher Bigot and Foru
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8,588 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I've never had a Strathon, but I recall someone saying petroleum jelly was effective.
This is inline with the packing grease theory.
 

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Nice pics. Makes me wonder how bad does the leak need to be to cause a playing problem? I think failing the suction test is not a big deal here.
 

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Distinguished SOTW Member/Forum Contributor 2009
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4,507 Posts
get Ultimax roller and pivot lubricant. It's a thick caramely like clear synt grease. It will work like a charm on that.
 

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Indistinguishable Resident Buescher Bigot and Foru
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8,588 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Nice pics. Makes me wonder how bad does the leak need to be to cause a playing problem? I think failing the suction test is not a big deal here.
It's enough of a leak to make it real tough on the first register. Even if it played well, the hissing is a bit distracting.
 

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Indistinguishable Resident Buescher Bigot and Foru
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8,588 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
get Ultimax roller and pivot lubricant. It's a thick caramely like clear synt grease. It will work like a charm on that.
I'm willing to give it a shot. I did like the fact I could order it in a syringe -- which makes hitting that little hole a bit cleaner.
 

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Distinguished SOTW Member/Forum Contributor 2009
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4,507 Posts
to be safe, inject a tad on each end of the hole, slide the shaft in, and put a dab on each side of the shaft when mounted thru the hole. That way, going up or down will always swipe a tad of that thick grease inside the hole and it will cover "leaks".
 

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Indistinguishable Resident Buescher Bigot and Foru
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8,588 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
FWIW, I just tried dripping candle wax on the shaft of both, building it up a bit around the length of the shaft. Reassembled the pieces and it appears to have done the trick!

This was a slight modification of a BarrySax6 suggestion. Many thanks to all!!

Now to search the forum for how to best fill in "Grand Canyon" level tooth marks, a couple minor chips on one side of the tip, another on one of the rails, and then turn brown rubber back to black.
 
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