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You might try the MouthpieceWork group on Yahoo, IIRC guys there have posted a few useable curves in the past. There is a range of functional facing curves, though, and if you don't know why you're using which one, wait until you do. My schedules wouldn't help as I use a different feeler set to most. But if you just want to double check whether some numbers you have are good or bad, post them here and/or there and I (and others) can give you an opinion how they look.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm not actually doing the work myself, but I want to know what curve to ask for. Right now my facing is mediumish (starts around 49 or 50 according to the old school measurement method) and is elliptical (I think - The angle of the curve increases towards the tip), and this sounds great but feels too resistant. Before it had an uneven facing probably, possibly the original from the link factory, which wasn't very flexible but was more free blowing.

I guess I just want to know what kind of curve I should ask for.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
A radial curve (keeping actual facing length and tip opening values) will do the trick. After a lot of testing I found elliptical curves use to feel to resistant for me and I think this is the same with you.
I'm really curious if this is what guys like Mfry, Mojo, and Neiwood are using, or if its some kind of mix. I don't know anything, as this is only the second piece I've had worked on. I think atonal has a point with suggesting the original curve... I just need to find out what it is!

All I know for sure is how the mouthpiece plays, and my piece is a little more resistant than I'd like right now...
 

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All I know for sure is how the mouthpiece plays, and my piece is a little more resistant than I'd like right now...
That's all you need to tell a good refacer. They know the rest, and they do the rest. You don't need to be able to speak their language about radial/elliptical/etc etc. I've had a lot of pieces refaced successfully, and never once pretended to tell the refacer technically how to do their job (although I do have a reasonable understanding of the different options).
 

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I'm not actually doing the work myself, but I want to know what curve to ask for. Right now my facing is mediumish (starts around 49 or 50 according to the old school measurement method) and is elliptical (I think - The angle of the curve increases towards the tip), and this sounds great but feels too resistant. Before it had an uneven facing probably, possibly the original from the link factory, which wasn't very flexible but was more free blowing.

I guess I just want to know what kind of curve I should ask for.
You're better off not being so specific about the details of the work. Every feature interacts with every other one. The best thing to do is have a good talk with whoever is doing the refacing (best is in person but I don't know to what extent that's feasible). He should ask where you're coming from as a player, what you like and don't like about the piece right now, what kind of gigs you use it on, what kind and size of pieces you tend to gravitate toward, reeds, etc. --- with the right information he should know what to do with the piece for you.

That said, in the vast majority of cases with a Florida Link, a simple restorative/remedial refacing is indicated. Just fix the errors and restore it to something in range of the original spec. Within that, though, there is some room for emphasizing some characteristics over others.
 

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The measurement of the current facing curve gives the refacer a base-line to work from. This is a data set for a facing curve that it a little too resistant for you on this mouthpiece. Then a new target curve can be planned that take the mouthpiece in the direction you want.

FYI, at 49-50, the facing length is longer than most Links (which are at 46-48). A 52 would be a very long facing. 54 is too long for some reed cuts and will start leaking air out the side.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It was originally at 48, and it didn't seem as flexible so I had it lengthened, which definitely helped to some degree. I think I need to get the right curve on there to begin with and see how it feels.
 

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Discussion Starter #14

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Much like the aforementioned recommendations, I'd recommend anything between 48-50 (24mm-25mm), and especially at that tip opening, a radial facing, which should match up with a Rico Select 3M or something similar really well.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Is the original florida curve radial? If someone would offer up their knowledge on the original curve I'd be ever so grateful. I haven't got this thing fixed yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
BTW, I did have the facing changed back to 48, which feels better than the 50, but its not the fix as of yet. Right now the facing is some version of an eliptical curve. It has too much resistant and is missing some of the lows and edge of the sound.
 

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Is the original florida curve radial? If someone would offer up their knowledge on the original curve I'd be ever so grateful. I haven't got this thing fixed yet.
No. AFAICT it's close to an elliptical curve.

Right now the facing is some version of an eliptical curve. It has too much resistant and is missing some of the lows and edge of the sound.
There is lot more to a curve than just the length, as you are finding. The curve on this piece may or may not be the source of your issues with it (the eccentricity of the ellipse may be too high, or it's unbalanced, or the break is too sharp,or poorly shaped baffle...). Everything interacts with everything else, and sometimes subtly and unpredictably so, and it's often not apparent to the naked eye just what's wrong. Best thing IMO is to quit nickel and dimeing the job with a couple thou here, couple mil there,.... Trust your mouthpiece guy (or find one to trust), talk with him about the sound and response problems you're having with it, and let him decide what the piece needs to be made right.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
No. AFAICT it's close to an elliptical curve.



There is lot more to a curve than just the length, as you are finding. The curve on this piece may or may not be the source of your issues with it (the eccentricity of the ellipse may be too high, or it's unbalanced, or the break is too sharp,or poorly shaped baffle...). Everything interacts with everything else, and sometimes subtly and unpredictably so, and it's often not apparent to the naked eye just what's wrong. Best thing IMO is to quit nickel and dimeing the job with a couple thou here, couple mil there,.... Trust your mouthpiece guy (or find one to trust), talk with him about the sound and response problems you're having with it, and let him decide what the piece needs to be made right.
Yes, Sir! Seriously, I'll just do it.
 

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Ben drove down to see me yesterday. We had a 2 hour session that appears to have addressed his issues with the Fl Link. Time will tell after he lives with it for a while.
 
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