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Fishing a repad. ???!!!! @#$%[email protected]!!!

1538 Views 7 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  JerryJamz2
I recently learned how to do a repad from a repair technician, but I am not sure that it is the most efficient way to do it. I already know how to mount the pads and everything, and I can already fix mechanical problems, but sealing the pads is what I have trouble with. After I get the whole sax together, I was told to use a heat gun on each key cup, (for about fourty seconds on the top of each key cup), and press down with a rag on the key button or cup, depending on which is available. I have heard that people have used key clamps, and other methods. Does any one, (which I'm sure a lot of people on this website do), know how to finish sealing, and shaping the pads, after every pad is mounted? Thankyou!
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Personally I find a small mild flame (like I get from my #0 or #00 acetylene tip, Ferree's tools acetylene torch kit) to work best, because I can heat sections of the key cup and work with it for a few seconds before it cools again, and the whole pad won't move, just the part I want to move. The heat gun has a much wider area it heats, and it is much harder to fix small leaks when the whole pad is floating.

I am also against key clamps- I think the shallowest seat you can get is best and will make for a longer lasting pad job. Deep seats do nothing except cover up sloppy work and shorten the life of the pad by overcompressing the felt- IMHO.

Also IMHO, pressing down on the key cup anywhere but where the force will come from during regular playing (the pearl, spatula, bar on the C# and F#, etc) will give you false results.
Jerry, I use the Ferree's L54 acetylene and atmospheric air torch for all of my padding operations.
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