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YTS 82Zii
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So after every gig, I open my case when I get home and allow the horn to air out. I'm hoping that the air can circulate through the horn instead of the horn being closed up in the case for possibly days. Most of the pads are near openings, however; should I drill a fairly large hole in my end cap so the air can circulate around the palm keys? I could seeing those pads not being able to dry out as well as the other pads because of their location on the horn. Somewhere, I've seen end plugs that are hollow. Drilling a large hole should still allow it to function as protection for the octave mechanism. Or am I overthinking and just wasting time?????
Thoughts?
 

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Get a few small pieces of cork and stick them under the palm keys (the key arms, not the pads) to prop them open slightly. This will work better for drying than a hole in the end plug. It's similar to the "Key Leaves" concept, but cheaper.

Btw, the Yamaha plastic end plug for the YTS-61 I used to own had a big hole as part of the design, and it did not impair the function of the plug at all.
 

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Personally, I think you're WAAAAAAAAAAY overthinking this and yes, wasting your time. No offense... So you're going to pull your horn out of the case to let it "air out"? You realize the end plug basically sits flush with the end of the case and no matter what kind of hole you drill, it would be useless. But hey, whatever floats yer boat. ;-)
 

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When I get home I put the horn on the stand, end plug out, make sure the neck can get some air... Then hit the fridge for snacks..
 

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...uh, when you open the case to let things air out overnight, take the plug out. Place it prominently so you remember to put it back.

Or just be glad you're doing the right thing by opening the case overnight, and be done with it.
 

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TENOR, soprano, alto, baritone
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When I got my new baritone in '15, I saw that the end cap had no hole. In this case, the end cap has a little clearance from the case so I went ahead and drilled it about 3/8". I always use a 'cat's tail' (long, flexible stuffer for this purpose) on the upper loop when I get home anyway to get most of the water out but the vented cap helps it dry out faster with the case closed. Its a Pro Tec Pro Pac contoured case with the wood body and nylon cover so it has some innate ability to let the sax dry even when closed. On my alto and tenor, the end plugs have been replaced with the rubber plugs of stuffers so no venting is needed there - the stuffer rubs the upper bore for its whole length on installation, pretty much completely drying it. I also use bell and neck stuffers.
You could use a completely open end cap like the brass ones on the old Martins. A closed end cap does not accomplish anything and a vented one might be beneficial even in the case - surely couldn't hurt.
 

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Putting a hole in an end cap is not going to make a significant difference in how the interior of the sax drys out. Unless you use some type of fan, there is no movement in the air. I would recommend using a HW Pad Saver and pushing it in and out of the sax several times after you have finished playing. If it feels the least bit moist afterwards lay it on top of the sax to dry before putting it back in the bore. Leaving the case open overnight can help if there is a musty smell, but if you have swabbed the sax well whatever residual moisture inside will dry just fine with the lid closed IMO. This is my experience in the dry climate in Utah, it may not be the same in Louisiana's high humidity.
 

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yes, may endplugs with a hole, King (and other brands) made metal cilinders as endplug, but your saxophone has many more holes where it dries that the top, true , baritones have the curl but inserting a long dying mouthpiece saver or one for piccolo or something like that ( I have done it and own one so I am sure ) to dry the curl will be very effective.

Over the years I have collected a number of padsavers and also a number of pull through swabs
 
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