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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I recently acquired a late Conn 10m tenor with no neck. While I would love to find a clean double socket neck, realistically that probably won't happen. The horn is bare-brass and I would rather not have to strip nickel off of the octave mechanism to get it to match. How hard would it be to take an earlier 10m octave mechanism and tenon and fit them onto the horn? I know that the underslung horns had an additional post so I would have to remove that as well. Included are some pictures.
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The problem with using other necks is not the socket size. That can be fitted. The issue is this era 10M mechanism has a reverse action or motion compared to most saxes. When you press the octave key for upper notes, the post moves toward the sax, not away. It pushes the neck key down instead of pulling a ring outward.
 

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There are some photos here:

 

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You've got two basic choices if you want to adapt a neck:

1) Get a standard 10M octave mechanism (the part that's on the body, with all the little gubbinses and bits) and use it to replace the mechanism that's on your horn; hope like hell that the interface points are close enough (where it interacts with the G key; where the thumb key is; etc.

2) Take a 10M neck and move the pip around to the underside and make a new octave key for the neck.

The tenon-receiver bit is fairly trivial to work out.

Frankly I think your chances of success would be better in getting a standard 10M/Pan Am/16M neck and moving the pip round to the bottom - there are many thousands of those necks around, whereas getting a dead 10M with the whole mechanism intact and getting it transferred over is going to be a HUGE PITA and you'll be left with most of a 10M that's missing its octave train.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The problem with using other necks is not the socket size. That can be fitted. The issue is this era 10M mechanism has a reverse action or motion compared to most saxes. When you press the octave key for upper notes, the post moves toward the sax, not away. It pushes the neck key down instead of pulling a ring outward.
That's why I'm looking to see if an octave key will fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You've got two basic choices if you want to adapt a neck:

1) Get a standard 10M octave mechanism (the part that's on the body, with all the little gubbinses and bits) and use it to replace the mechanism that's on your horn; hope like hell that the interface points are close enough (where it interacts with the G key; where the thumb key is; etc.

2) Take a 10M neck and move the pip around to the underside and make a new octave key for the neck.

The tenon-receiver bit is fairly trivial to work out.

Frankly I think your chances of success would be better in getting a standard 10M/Pan Am/16M neck and moving the pip round to the bottom - there are many thousands of those necks around, whereas getting a dead 10M with the whole mechanism intact and getting it transferred over is going to be a HUGE PITA and you'll be left with most of a 10M that's missing its octave train.
I thought about that for sure. I have a 10m neck that's in fairly good shape but for 100 I could order a cheap replica off of ebay to mess with. The only iffy thing is placing the octave pip, I know that the underslung tenors had them at an angle but I could probably line that up and figuret it out with some trial and error. But at that point with all of the effort is it even worth it? This tenor has a bunch of weird quirks so I'm not too awful sure about cutting up a 10m neck to be underslung. I'd rather have that normal look.
 

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First thing I checked was the date of this thread.

Folks... catch up with curve here;)....several threads about the fact that there's a Chinese factory with an eBay presence which now makes replica underslung 10M/6M necks.



They are dead-on replicas, I used one on a neckless 60's 10M. The ONLY issue, as I reported in an initial thread on them (started by Palo Tung, I think) is that there was an issue with the siver-soldering of the thumbscrew eyelets; they needed to be resoldered here.

I suggested that anyone buying one talk to the seller and get them to have the factory confirm that issue has been dealt with and that the eyelets are solidly and reliably soldered.

Other thing I suggested is have them bump up the shipping to Fedex or DHL, as the standard ship from China can take 6 weeks and then oddly, the tracking # changes once it enters US but they don't change it in the shipping info (not their fauly, but that's just what happens).

So this is by far the best, quickest bet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
First thing I checked was the date of this thread.

Folks... catch up with curve here;)....several threads about the fact that there's a Chinese factory with an eBay presence which now makes replica underslung 10M/6M necks.



They are dead-on replicas, I used one on a neckless 60's 10M. The ONLY issue, as I reported in an initial thread on them (started by Palo Tung, I think) is that there was an issue with the siver-soldering of the thumbscrew eyelets; they needed to be resoldered here.

I suggested that anyone buying one talk to the seller and get them to have the factory confirm that issue has been dealt with and that the eyelets are solidly and reliably soldered.

Other thing I suggested is have them bump up the shipping to Fedex or DHL, as the standard ship from China can take 6 weeks and then oddly, the tracking # changes once it enters US but they don't change it in the shipping info (not their fauly, but that's just what happens).

So this is by far the best, quickest bet.
I have a silver plated one for my 6m and I don't care for it at all. I immediately noticed that it was a lot lighter and had a differrent angle then my original. The sound was also quite stuffy. I'm not too fond about that option.
 

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Well, here are your options.

1) Continue to scour the world for an original neck in your configuration. Rare.
2) Take a regular 10M/16M/Pan Am neck and move the pip around to the bottom and make a new octave key. Modifiable necks are readily available and the engineering of the octave key on the neck would be straightforward.
3) Find a 10M donor horn and neck with top mount octave key, remove the mechanism from its body and install it on yours, hoping all the interface points are the same. Lots of work, good luck finding an otherwise unusable 10M with all that mechanism in good order, and you end up with a 10M carcass to dispose of.
4) buy a replica neck from China.

Good luck with whichever you choose.
 

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On my two late 10Ms, the pip is on the bottom. On the inside, there is a small tube that extends into the neck interior. This keeps spit from running out the pip. Same idea as seen inside clarinet bores and the lower sax pip.

The Chinese neck seems like a good find. I tried a quick Google yesterday and nothing popped up for me.
 

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I have a silver plated one for my 6m and I don't care for it at all. I immediately noticed that it was a lot lighter and had a differrent angle then my original. The sound was also quite stuffy. I'm not too fond about that option.
Not surprised. Cheap stuff from China often prioritize looks over function or quality. Not generalizing. A lot of good products are made in China these days, but consistency and quality cost money. There is no free lunch.

Good luck asking the factory whether a prior quality issue has been addressed. I bet they're answer will be "sure", no matter the facts.
 

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I have a silver plated one for my 6m and I don't care for it at all. I immediately noticed that it was a lot lighter and had a differrent angle then my original. The sound was also quite stuffy. I'm not too fond about that option.
I never bought a 6M one but I can tell you with certainty that the 10M ones are really accurate replicas....and they fit well, performed quite well, no odd intonation, and a nice clear, 10M tone. I am not gonna say they are as hefty as the originals, but they are accurate repros...not just "made to look pretty, forget everything else"....

I dunno ....as noted above...$500+ gets you an original one if you can be patient and wait a year for one to pop up on eBay or the like.....$500+ gets you a custom-made replica from one of the places which supplies those.....or $400+ gets you (maybe) a tech who can do the alterations to your 10M (again these are significant, octave mech needs to be altered quite a bit and a new receiver installed) to allow it to take a standard 16M type neck (plus the cost of acquiring a 16M neck).

Or lastly as Turf notes, find another 10M horn to use for parts...and nowadays even the late 60's ones in project shape cost $750+, so....

Oh, I forgot the last one: sell your 10M body for maybe, I dunno, $450 might be a market value...and buy a complete 10M instead....

IMHO, compared to any of the above, a $125 chinese replica 10M neck seems worth a punt to me....if you don't like it you can resell it for $65 certainly....
 

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My original late 60鈥檚 10M neck got dinged up a lot in HS marching band in the early 70鈥檚. It was repaired but it has never been right.

I purchased a similar era 10M off eBay in 1999. It was overhauled in black automotive paint! But it plays better than my first one. If I use its neck on my first one it play better but still not as good as the second one.

I do not play tenor much anymore. But now I鈥榤 curious about the replica neck. It is neat you can buy one for less than the cost of a decent mouthpiece.
 
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