[Tonehole]

Need just the shank off a damaged metal tenor Otto Link. If you have a damaged piece something with a dented tip, a piece someone gnawed through or was refaced with a file and a belt sander I am interested.
I want to cut the shank off the scrap piece and transfer the shank to a Double Ring piece I am playing that had the shank cut off and shortened. Plays great just tough to position and stay in place on the cork.

Let me know what you are willing to part with, I will pay postage and a finders fee? Make an offer.
I will post a picture of the resurrected Frankenstein piece when completed.

Cheers

 

[mrpeebee]

Do you really think your DR needs a longer shank? The older Otto Link models (Master Link, Four**** and Tone Master) all had shorter shanks compared to the later STM's and they did also fit on the cork of the players using them.

So maybe you could just fix your issue by expanding your cork thickness a bit more towards the end of it. This can be done by holding it shortly in some steam (from boiling water). The former owner of your DR could probably also play it with the shorter shank, so I think it's more related to the cork.

Whatever you choose, good luck with the improvements.

 

[Tonehole]

Do you really think your DR needs a longer shank? The older Otto Link models (Master Link, Four**** and Tone Master) all had shorter shanks compared to the later STM's and they did also fit on the cork of the players using them.

So maybe you could just fix your issue by expanding your cork thickness a bit more towards the end of it. This can be done by holding it shortly in some steam (from boiling water). The former owner of your DR could probably also play it with the shorter shank, so I think it's more related to the cork.

Whatever you choose, good luck with the improvements.

Thanks for the suggestion but it would be best to extend it.
I play a few different pieces depending on venue and genre of music a Freddie Gregory rubber Mark IV, a 50"s Tone Master opened by Doc Tenney and a metal Berg when I need to be heard in raucous poorly mic ed venues.

The Double Ring was cut to the length of the Tone Master, the old guy I bought it from played on both models of Links.
For me were it fits on the cork in tune is precarious and can shift with the slightest of touch. Could be because he was playing on a SBA and I am using a Series II. Regardless fattening or swelling the cork would make swapping out pieces difficult.
Been playing on it for over a year now and am more comfortable with it and have put my Tone Master as back up now but still use the other pieces more often then this piece.

Thanx for the input always welcome.

 

[mrpeebee]

Ok, so you use different mouthpieces with different internal shank diameters.

I have a big mouthpiece collection with pieces with different shank diameters and solved that issue by having two necks with different cork size. Another option could be to close the internal diameter of your DR a little. I've seen some threads about that here on the forum. If I remember well some added a think coating of (clear) nail-lacquer or epoxy into the end of the mouthpiece shank to let it fit closer to the cork. Might be easier than expanding the shank, which is of course also an option.

 

[1saxman]

Yep, if you are using different mouthpieces you will probably need at least one spare neck with a different-sized cork. On the subject of correcting a cut-off shank on a brass mouthpiece, there are so many pitfalls in doing it that I'll only mention a few; if the original cut was not 'square', it will have to be made square (perpendicular to the bore) and the replacement piece (called a 'Dutchman' in the mechanical trades) will also have to be cut square. The inside diameters must be identical, which is not likely to happen by chance. What I would do is to determine the exact finished length I'm after and consult a good machinist on making the existing end square, then measuring and making the new brass piece to match outside and inside. Then it will have to be brazed to the existing mouthpiece, which of course was originally brazed together out of two halves. This is a trick situation but an experienced jeweler who has a small brazing set-up might be a good person to do it. Soft soldering is not going to hold up in this 'butt-weld' situation. They probably would use the lowest temperature silver braze, hoping to not melt the braze already in the mouthpiece.
This seems like a lot to go through to save a fairly common mouthpiece, especially when the chances of ruining the mouthpiece are rather high..

 

[whaler]

Need just the shank off a damaged metal tenor Otto Link. If you have a damaged piece something with a dented tip, a piece someone gnawed through or was refaced with a file and a belt sander I am interested.
I want to cut the shank off the scrap piece and transfer the shank to a Double Ring piece I am playing that had the shank cut off and shortened. Plays great just tough to position and stay in place on the cork.

Let me know what you are willing to part with, I will pay postage and a finders fee? Make an offer.
I will post a picture of the resurrected Frankenstein piece when completed.

Cheers

That sounds like the original NY DR 6* I had. It played ok and the shank still went to where my others Links have gone to on my cork. The NY DR had the longest shank I've seen on a Link except for that early 80's model that was really long.

 

[Tonehole]

Thanx again for input,
I like MrPeeBee's idea of using a material to reduce the diameter of the shank. I had not considered that and now have a few ideas for building up the inner diameter and then wrap a light emery cloth on the neck to achieve a nice smooth tapered fit to the correct position on the neck cork.

Isaxman Double rings are anything but common and one that plays well for you is even rarer. This one works and I have another but it does not work for me. I intend to use that piece to determine the length. I am handy at soldering and using a lathe, I apprenticed as a tool and die maker for a year, a jeweler with silver solder could easily do it with the pieces aligned on round stock machined to the bore diameter. The right Silver solder has a very high strength, they use silver solder to attach the carbide onto circular saw teeth, but your concerns are noted.

Still looking for a damaged link as I am gambling that the two pieces would be a close match for brass content and being the same thickness would heat and bond the same.

Advice welcome but a junk Otto Link is my quest.

 

[mrpeebee]

Still looking for a damaged link as I am gambling that the two pieces would be a close match for brass content and being the same thickness would heat and bond the same.

Advice welcome but a junk Otto Link is my quest.

Be aware that the inner shank diameter of modern Otto Link's is normally wider compared to the older STM's (Double Ring and Florida). So if you find a modern junk Link to use you still might have to consider making that shank diameter a little smaller to fit to the original remainder of your (probably smaller) DR shank inner diameter.

I guess you will find this video of MojoBari (Keith Bradbury, a very skilled mouthpiece technician and also a member here on the forum) interesting:

 

[Tonehole]

Wow, thank you for the link that helps a lot,
I was thinking of using 5 minute epoxy but JB weld may be easier to use as it is a little denser I think.
What do you think would be the out come of applying a layer of Teflon plumbers tape to the neck cork and then slipping the mouthpiece on to the neck close to position with the JB weld in it?
Watching the video the plastic does pull free, if the cork was waxed and Teflon tape applied once the weld hardens it may break loose with a twist and pull .... though it may tear the cork off the neck?

I am convinced the reducing the shank interior diameter is the way to go now.
I have used one of these pens ..

to do a few repairs. I think it is similar to what dentists use for fillings these day. Thought I could lay beads if it in the throat of the shank to build it up.

Will do more research before attempting.

As always input welcome and still interested in a junk Link piece.

 

[stomias]

Teflon tape works great. Lasts, doesn't damage anything....

 

[mrpeebee]

What do you think would be the out come of applying a layer of Teflon plumbers tape to the neck cork and then slipping the mouthpiece on to the neck close to position with the JB weld in it?

I'm not sure and I'm also not a handy person myself!

What I would try to avoid at first is to use materials that change your mouthpiece 'for ever' (epoxy can be hard to remove). So testing with same teflon tape on the cork first to see if you like the results seem like the best approach to me (you might have to apply it each time you try the DR). If you're convinced that you will be happy with a (semi) permanent solution you could use epoxy or other stuff. I think I remember having seen something about adding a thin metal sheet inside the shank too, which can be folded outwards at the begin of the shank. Not sure if that could work...

 

[Tonehole]

Thanks again for your suggestions,
I will try to install Aluminum metal tape inside the piece, I have used it on duck work in the past and it will make a removable shim. You can even buy it at the Dollar store.

 

[Albey]

Have you thought about adding a little extension on the neck of your horn? I had a Conn Chu Berry Tenor that a Link Super Tone Master would not fit on the neck hardly at all. To get it to play in tune it would practically fall off. My Sax tech braised a small extension on the neck and it worked perfectly.

 

[mfry]

Doing it with another pie e is the hardest way. Anybody with a lathe (some repair guys, all machine shops, lots of hobbiests) can turn an extension that will fit perfectly on your shank and have the exact same bore. It's a 10 minute job, 15 at the most.

 

[Sigmund451]

Doing it with another pie e is the hardest way. Anybody with a lathe (some repair guys, all machine shops, lots of hobbiests) can turn an extension that will fit perfectly on your shank and have the exact same bore. It's a 10 minute job, 15 at the most.

Thats what I was thinking but I am not a machinist.

There is a significant likelihood that that same person can silver solder or braise the two pieces together rather than messing with adhesives. On a DR it seems to me that its best to do the job right.

 

[mrpeebee]

Found some more old threads and solutions which could be of interest:

Removable mouthpiece extensions:
https://forum.saxontheweb.net/showthread.php?353498-Mouthpiece-extension-anyone-making
http://doctorsaxwoodwinds.com/shop/local-only/accessories/mouthpiece-extensions/

Otto Link Master Link with metal shank extension (pics on eBay):
https://forum.saxontheweb.net/showt...-Link-Master-Link-on-eBay-with-extended-shank
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Otto-link-...=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557