[[email protected]]

I recently picked up this 1937 6M, original including some of the pads, very nice shape. One thing I was observing is the alignment of the octave pad to the vent hole. The pad is a replacement, not original. It is not centered to the vent hole and is almost on the edge of not hitting. Although it does have a full imprint of the vent hole on the pad, I was wondering if this has been seen before, and if it can be corrected. Maybe a pad with a lower profile that would cause the key to sit in further and get better alignment?

 

[saxoclese]

It looks as if a thinner pad would help, perhaps a .165" that fits the cup size. Sometimes "over the top" neck octave keys and be bent differently to adjust the length, but this type of "underslung" key that doesn't appear to be possible. In any event if the pad makes an airtight seal regardless of how it looks it will be just fine.

 

[Dr G]

The cup looks like it is already past parallel to the plane of the pip. I don't think a thinner pad will help the geometry. On the other hand, if it works, why change it?

 

[[email protected]]

I'm not 100% certain its sealing on the inside edge, its cutting it close. Getting a rough transition between upper octave notes to middle register, was thinking that could be the culprit.

 

[Dr G]

I'm not 100% certain its sealing on the inside edge, its cutting it close. Getting a rough transition between upper octave notes to middle register, was thinking that could be the culprit.

Check also to see that the body octave pip is lifting cleanly - and that the vent tube is clear of Stuff.

 

[smash]

Perhaps the neck has been slightly pulled down?

 

[whaler]

I'm not 100% certain its sealing on the inside edge, its cutting it close. Getting a rough transition between upper octave notes to middle register, was thinking that could be the culprit.

That's a Conn thing. It's worse on the 10M.
As I've said before, it's made me dump the two I've had.

 

[turf3]

I have something like that on mine. It's not been a problem in the 42 years I've had the horn. A little bending can improve the alignment, but you'll have to replace the pad if the alignment is changed.

 

[clarnibass]

I would first check if it's sealing and if it works fine and being "ugly" is the only issue I would leave it alone.

If it's bent it would usually be in the other direction, but maybe it was bent and over-aligned back.
Most likely that it's always been this way.

It's probably possible to bend the key more into the neck, to move slightly closer, however depending on the exact shape and the way it is bent (hard to be sure from a photo) it might move it slightly in the other direction too (e.g. the end looks a bit curved, so straightening it would sort of do both - move it farther, but also back from the increased travel). Then use a thinner pad to increase travel even more (align key pad to work with the new thickness).
It's a guess but the current pad could very well be a 4.0mm pad (approx 0.160") so you might need a thinner pad if you do this (e.g. a clarinet pad).

 

[PigSquealer]

Put you mouthpiece on without a reed and blow with your hand plugging the other end. It should hold pressure. Check the micro tuner too.

 

[mijderf]

I agree with smash in post #6, it looks like the neck has a slight pull down. You probably won't be able to get a definitive answer here. I would contact someone who works on necks like Aaron Barnard and see what he recommends.

 

[BOPITY FUNK]

Looks like the 'pip' has been replaced to me.....I'm sure-or not?-it should have the funnel type............just sayin'

 

[turf3]

I don't think that neck is bent. Nor do I think the pip is incorrect, though it might have been resoldered. That wouldn't change its position.

OP. what you do here is use a generous puffy pad and get it as good as you can. It won't leak. If you want to be overly cautious about it, you could put a little sideways S bend in the arm of the key between the pivot and the pad.

 

[saxoclese]

[Thinking outside the box] If a regular sax pad presents an issue of not sealing, one could fill the key cup with shellac and glue a thin bassoon pad with a wider diameter on top of the cup. Variation #2 would be to find a pad that fits completely inside the key cup and glue the thin wider diameter bassoon pad on top of that. In effect you would be making a "stepped pad" that is commonly used on clarinets.

The only way to tell for sure if there is pull down is to feel the sides of the curve with your finger tips to see if there is a "ridge". If that is the case you don't need a "specialist" to repair the "pull down". Any experienced professional tech can properly perform that procedure.

 

[turf3]

Keep in mind that the 6M neck makes more of a bend - in other words, it's closer to perpendicular to the body, than many current production altos. The neck in the photo does not look to me like it's been pulled down, certainly not enough to cause the misalignment of the pad that's shown. I'm betting it was that way from the factory.

 

[jgreiner]

Looks fine to me and I agree with Doc. G (post #5).

 

[milandro]

Looks like the 'pip' has been replaced to me.....I'm sure-or not?-it should have the funnel type............just sayin'

the pip has't been replaced on the grounds that the lacquer would have been burnt. As for being the correct pip, it is since my 6M from the '50 has the same pip just not off center.

These necks are very sturdy pulling them down would be very difficult I just think that OP's neck escaped QC of the time