[-88-]

I have a 1936 10M (my typo said 1935 on recent thread, but it's 1936). This is truly a lovely tenor. The issue here is a sticking A pad.

I play this horn every day. The pads are black Roo and as far as pads go they have been the best I've had on any horn. I know some prefer white Roo, etc, but I've black ones. No pads stick but for that pesky A pad. Going from A up to B, often is delayed while the horn waits for the A pad to lift. :evil:

Yes, I do the dollar bill trick, but, the A pad resumes sticking a day later. Has anyone installed a helper spring under the lifting arm down at the F pad? This seems like it would work, but there may be something much simpler.

What do all you 10M players do or am I the only one with this issue?

 

[Grumps]

Clean the pad and tonehole with lighter fluid on a q-tip and make sure the spring isn't set too weak. And then we'll get to the low D issue...

 

[clarnibass]

Are you sure it is the A pad that is sticking and not the Bis Bb key pad that is opening and closing with the A pad? Press the A key, you will see two pads closing. Is it the top or bottom one that is sticking (top = closer to the top of the sax)? IME roo pads (black or white) don't help against sticking pads when the issue is not from the pad itself, which many sticking issues are. Anyway, start with grumps' suggestions.

 

[jazzznbluezzz]

I have similar sticking pad issues on my '36 Conn sometimes.
First, do not drink a Coke just before you start playing :bluewink:.
Anyway I clean the pads and tone holes with special 'pads life cleaning fluid' on regular basis.
When urgent like during gigs I use 'powder paper sheets'. However it is wise to clean the pads
afterwards again. It works nicely.
I have not fiddled with the spring tensions (yet).

 

[Rennie]

Well - I have only to deal with the occasional sticky G# - the most popular of all sticky pads. Could it be something with the A tone hole? A little burr?

 

[-88-]

Thanks Rennie. Perhaps but it's a recent phenomenon and the horn hasn't been out of my sight. I use the high fiber paper cleaning trick on the G# and it gives me no problem.

Grumps, clarnibass: Lighter fluid ehhh? Do they still sell that stuff? I'll go looking at a local smoke shop. By the way, clarnibass, it's the upper pad that is sticking (bis Bb)

jazzznbluezzz: I gave up Coke (you DO mean that kind don't you?) a long time ago. I eschew sugar drinks. Prefer Jameson Irish Whiskey. Or, maybe I'm just too sweet (okay! stop throwing eggs)

 

[kaldamae]

I just keep my "sticky pads" opened, while sax is in the case, with a little piece of rubber .... and clean them with simple (clean )toilet paper.... no problems since...

 

[BOPITY FUNK]

Is it the A or 'bis' key that's sticking? If the 'bis' a little more spring tension BUT--check pivot screws both ends of rod and take out any 'slop', then lock with the grub screws.

 

[EsbSpecial]

Every damn time I take Yvonne out of her case, the same damn key keeps sticking no matter what I do to the damn thing.

Oh, the joys of vintage Conns.

 

[bruce bailey]

Check the felt under the A pearl. Sometimes the contact cement on the felt will stick to the Bb cup. Also oil the cracks at the edges of the hinge tubing at the A key. Next would be to adjust the spring stronger which may not be easy with the keys on.

 

[10mfan]

clean the pad and tonehole with lighter fluid on a q-tip and make sure the spring isn't set too weak. And then we'll get to the low d issue...

+1 Grumps.

Lighter fluid has been my old standby for 25+ years. One little can will last forever.
I also keep a WD-40 "stick" inside my case for the rods.

 

[jgreiner]

For what it's worth (probably not much), every 2 months or so, I treat my pads with Neatsfoot Oil using a Q-tip. It doesn't matter what kind of horn or pads you have, some of 'em are always going to have sticking problems, especially the G#, low Eb and C# pads. I've been doing the Neatsfoot Oil thing for about 20 yrs. now and it works great for me.

John

 

[ferrari]

The best cure would be to get a 10M that has no rolled tone holes. It works. It cracks me up that we are willing to pay a premium for something that negatively affects playing. This is even funnier than the five digit Selmer thing. Anybody want to buy a bridge. Seriously though, just using logic, doesn't it make sense that a tone hloe with a greater surface area is more likely to stick? I love my 41' 10M, but I hate the rolled tone holes. Conn should have put a dollar bill in every case.