Bought Hornfixer's video on repad etc for Conn 10M. It was fabulous. However, if anyone viewed this video could they share what cork thickness was used for the feet, and other. I see that various thicknesses were used but would like some specifics if anyone would be kind enough to list them. Thanks and Happy New Year.
Conn 10M cork thicknesses; Video Hornfixer
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The thickness is determined by the adjustments needed (for adjustment materials) and by the key height desired (for silencing materials). In other words, the horn will tell you.
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I think the question is really going to be "How open was the keywork?" Because every 10m is gonna take slightly different cork thicknesses to have the same feel. The keywork is all handmade, and therefore subject to human error (not to mention if someone bent any of the keys). I think the normal start point is 1/16 or 3/64. These are good start points.
OK...what others have said is true. In general places where keys articulate ...left hand and right hand stack, as well as other areas require a thin firm cork or cork product or other material. 1/64" or 1/32" generally. Under the kickers/feet of the keys it is generally thicker, 1/16, 3/32 that is trimmed or sanded to achieve appropriate key height while still eliminating lost motion in the mechanism. 1/16" is generally used for neck corks. Other areas require sometimes heavier corks.
So if the real question is what cork do I buy? A sheet each of 1/64, 1/32 and 1/16 will cover you for most things. You can laminate to make thicker cork, or go find some cork stoppers if you need a heavy piece. Most of us that have been doing this for a while stock everything from 1/64 - 1/4 or the metric equivalent as well as a variety of synthetic materials.
So if the real question is what cork do I buy? A sheet each of 1/64, 1/32 and 1/16 will cover you for most things. You can laminate to make thicker cork, or go find some cork stoppers if you need a heavy piece. Most of us that have been doing this for a while stock everything from 1/64 - 1/4 or the metric equivalent as well as a variety of synthetic materials.
Thanks for the replies. I did use 1/64 on upper contact feet and 1/16 on lower foot surfaces of stacks. Key heights will be adjusted as needed. Haven't done a 19M before. Waiting for pads and resos from Music Medic Again thanks for the assistance.
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Fred Kirchner had a simple rules. For stopping action 1/16th cork. At regulation points and all sliding action 1/64th cork. 1/32 cork on F# arm and on low Bb when 1/16th is too thick. Although, some of the stuff coming in from offshore now has changed these rules. But for the most part on vintage horns these rules hold true. You have to remember that over time the geometry of the keys changes from playing and from a lot of different hands working on the horns. So, when I cork the keys I follow these rules and then "reset" the geometry. This usually solves a lot of problems through the rest of the repad.
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For linkages where the "timing" is critical, modern materials have pretty much displaced natural cork, as being more stable in thickness, i.e. less compression with use.
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I would have to respectfully disagree with this statement. Although synthetic materials are now being used in the trade and by some OEM's, I don't think natural cork has been made obsolete or displaced. I've tried every synthetic that has come into favor over the years, and I still prefer natural cork over any of them. I'm honestly not being a "stick in the mud". I've bought the synthetics, have given them a fair trial, and choose not to use them in my shop. I guess the old addage "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" comes to mind. Just MHO.
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"Sometimes I will use a cork on the feet of the key and use some felt on the body where the feet hit the body"
Just to clarify, my comment referred to critical linkages.
All IMO of course, based on seeing results of actions over 45 years.
Just to clarify, my comment referred to critical linkages.
Just look at any natural cork that has spent some time in a linkage. It is crushed to around 1/2 its thickness or less. I don't know about you, but for me that is a major change in adjustment. A customer would have to come back every few months for adjustment until that cork stopped compressing. That, to me, is "broke", and needs fixing. The very high density synthetic felt from Kraus and others, and the higher grades of agglomerated cork, deal with this issue far better than natural cork does.
All IMO of course, based on seeing results of actions over 45 years.
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Hi Gordon,
As usual topics like this come down to personal experience and opinion. And I do want to keep this a friendly exchange of ideas. I'm far too old to argue. I've been at this a long time too. 38 years to be exact. And must say, the only time I see that the corks at a regulation point (I think what you are calling " linkages where the "timing" is critical") have caused a mis-adjustment due to swelling or compressing is when the wrong thickness of cork is used. If only 1/64th cork is used at these points, the horn holds it's adjustment beautifully. I have guys that stop by with their horns every couple of months for "a check up". Not because they are having problems. They just want me to take a look. And the regulation (timing) is right on the money. It might be that they stop by because I always have some cold long necks in the fridge and big band music on the stereo.
As an amedum, I do find that the durth of brand new Chinese and Tiwanese horns that find there way to my bench have 1/16th cork at the regulation points right from the factory. These horns have constant regulation problems and until the keys are recorked properly, they continue to have problems.
Again, Just IMHO!
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