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i beg to differ about the mpcs issues. try a berg or dukoff or gardalua and see what happens. your mpc will be hanging off the end of the cork and you will still be sharp. best bet is a link . rubber or metal for these.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i beg to differ about the mpcs issues. try a berg or dukoff or gardalua and see what happens. your mpc will be hanging off the end of the cork and you will still be sharp. best bet is a link . rubber or metal for these.
Thanks, my tech has lots of mouthpieces I can try ..... let’s get her here, then in the shop and then I’ll check out some mouthpieces. Thanks for the input though. I’m exited again😂🤣
 

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I usually play Link-like mouthpieces, so pretty much everything I've got works fine on my 10M. I even have a Berg that plays well on it. A Selmer C* was fine, too, as was my RPC, which has a high baffle, a squeeze throat and a medium chamber. I do tune further out on the cork than on my Selmer and much further out than on modern horns, but there's still room for adjustment.

Solve the mouthpiece problem IF you run into it, but I bet whatever is working on your Buescher is a fine place to start.

If you can get this thing purring for $2100 CAD, that's a pretty solid deal. About what I paid for my 10M in good shape, but I did put a couple hundred more into it getting things just right. One thing I have liked about fixer-upper horns is that, provided I didn't put too much down up front, it's a chance to get things set up the way I like them, since a tech is going to be fixing everything anyways. Sounds like you've got a good relationship with a good tech, which is a solid place to start.

Talk to your tech about getting the action as light and snappy as possible. After the tone, my favorite thing about my 10M is how snappy and crisp the keywork is. The key heights feel really low to me and it doesn't seem to close off the horn like that would on my Selmer.

Congratulations! I think you've got something with real potential here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I usually play Link-like mouthpieces, so pretty much everything I've got works fine on my 10M. I even have a Berg that plays well on it. A Selmer C* was fine, too, as was my RPC, which has a high baffle, a squeeze throat and a medium chamber. I do tune further out on the cork than on my Selmer and much further out than on modern horns, but there's still room for adjustment.

Solve the mouthpiece problem IF you run into it, but I bet whatever is working on your Buescher is a fine place to start.

If you can get this thing purring for $2100 CAD, that's a pretty solid deal. About what I paid for my 10M in good shape, but I did put a couple hundred more into it getting things just right. One thing I have liked about fixer-upper horns is that, provided I didn't put too much down up front, it's a chance to get things set up the way I like them, since a tech is going to be fixing everything anyways. Sounds like you've got a good relationship with a good tech, which is a solid place to start.

Talk to your tech about getting the action as light and snappy as possible. After the tone, my favorite thing about my 10M is how snappy and crisp the keywork is. The key heights feel really low to me and it doesn't seem to close off the horn like that would on my Selmer.

Congratulations! I think you've got something with real potential here.
Thanks “dirty”
I’ve a “Claude Humber “ mouthpiece which works for me on buescher.
Light and snappy! Got it!
There’s some great advice there, I’m keeping this post 👍👍
 

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Don't let them get you down. If you can get a good 10m sounding nice for under 3K, then that's a good deal! Some of these horns are absolutely magical.

Mine is a little mouthpiece sensitive, but a relaxed embouchure with a link-style piece will always work fine. I wouldn't use something with a small chamber like a Soloist, or with a huge baffle unless it had a large chamber as well. It actually has very good intonation.

Make sure your tech sets up the LH spatula correctly. The horn has an articulated G#, so the other three notes are powered by the G# spring. It works best when the low Bb and B are sprung loosely enough that when you put the horn on its side, gravity closes them. Springing the low C# quite lightly is essential as this runs off the G# spring too. If you set it up this way, it's as slick and efficient as a modern Selmer-style design.

Also, @dirty is right - these don't need super high key heights to sound great.

Congrats!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Don't let them get you down. If you can get a good 10m sounding nice for under 3K, then that's a good deal! Some of these horns are absolutely magical.

Mine is a little mouthpiece sensitive, but a relaxed embouchure with a link-style piece will always work fine. I wouldn't use something with a small chamber like a Soloist, or with a huge baffle unless it had a large chamber as well. It actually has very good intonation.

Make sure your tech sets up the LH spatula correctly. The horn has an articulated G#, so the other three notes are powered by the G# spring. It works best when the low Bb and B are sprung loosely enough that when you put the horn on its side, gravity closes them. Springing the low C# quite lightly is essential as this runs off the G# spring too. If you set it up this way, it's as slick and efficient as a modern Selmer-style design.

Also, @dirty is right - these don't need super high key heights to sound great.

Congrats!
Thank you “jazz house”, I’m going to print this off too
John
 

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Lol, I know she looks in rough shape , but I’ve got a tech to look at the pictures and a full overhaul would cost C$1100, that includes the new octave post. So we’ll see if it was “the bargain of the century” or a Very bad choice 😪
Unless there is something major, like really major, it can't be a Very bad choice. The MPC issue is real on these horns, just like with the Buescher TTs but it's an easy fix, just make sure that you get a piece with a longer shank and you should be good. Leveling the toneholes can be a challenge but there are enough threads here that address this very issue.

Otherwise, congrats, this looks like it could become a killer horn!
 

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I have a later one, about 1957. What superDan says is true about playing sharp. I play a RPC hard rubber piece and it hangs off the end of the neck. I’ve concluded it’s the horn and not me. My alto plays right in tune and so does my clarinet. I play as loose an embouchure as possible while still having control and it’s still 20 cents sharp when I push the mpc in halfway up the cork. No big deal. Just pull it out until it plays in tune. I just re-corked mine last week and I left a little extra cork on so it fits nice and tight.

It could be a Link or other large chamber piece would help but I really don’t want to get on that merry-go-round..
 

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No worries @John curtis - you might find this helpful. It's a better explanation of what I said.

Also, if you ever get a chance to try a Dukoff stubby on your 10m, you won't regret it! That's a particularly fun combination. Maybe someone you know has one lying around.
 
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