[jbtsax]

I have recently done some tests of different methods and materials to clean white roo pads that have become dirty. The first photo shows the products used.

The second photo shows the before and after comparison of the 4 pads that were soiled by rubbing on the tops of things in my shop that never get dusted (I'll have to speak with the maid about that.) The 5th larger pad was stained with oil from key rods.

As you can see from the above photos, once the black oil soaks into the white roo leather, you are left with just one choice, and that is to replace the pad. On the dirty pads, the liquid products cover up the dirt somewhat but leave the surface of the pad feeling sticky to the touch.

As shown in the above photo, the most effective method of removing "non-oil" smudges is the one recommended by Curt Alterac, and that is to use a good quality white art eraser. The Sanford pencil style eraser did a good job and is handy to clean the outside edges of pads with the keys still on the instrument. The Mercur Prism art eraser worked the best, and the Paper Mate white eraser was the least effective of the three.

 

[hgiles]

Great info! Thanks! Time to go buy some white erasers!

 

[Chris Peryagh]

I used this for removing dirty key oil from them: http://www.interstatemusic.com/weba...=40089365&langId=-1&parent_category_rn=20000# works a treat! Solvents such as trichloroethane (dry cleaning fluid) or toluene should do the same thing.

Alcohol (methylated spirits or isopropyl) didn't do much.

 

[simso]

I Solvents such as trichloroethane

Very very bad for you

 

[Chris Peryagh]

Everything good is bad for you.

 

[jbtsax]

I used this for removing dirty key oil from them: http://www.interstatemusic.com/weba...=40089365&langId=-1&parent_category_rn=20000# works a treat! Solvents such as trichloroethane (dry cleaning fluid) or toluene should do the same thing.

Alcohol (methylated spirits or isopropyl) didn't do much.

Thanks. I will order that and try that product. My experience with solvents such as tolulene, naptha, etc. is that they left the pad a greenish color after they evaporated. I assume they dissolve the white dye used to whiten the roo leather.

 

[ikbtops]

I started a thread on this a while back that was locked:
http://forum.saxontheweb.net/showthread.php?153101-What-are-you-using-to-clean-white-roo-pads

I've since found that while cleaning my silver Buescher that tha Haggerty silversmith polish also can safely clean the green and black stuff of these, if you're willing to disassemble your horn. I use this in conjunction with a white pencil eraser.
I had better results with the polish. But assembled the eraser is no doubt probably safer.

 

[jbtsax]

Stop the presses! Thanks to Chris, I gave Tolulene another try on the black oil stained pad and it worked beautifully. This time I let the pad dry completely, even using a hot air gun to speed up the process and the yucky green color turned back into bright white with the oil stain removed. Thanks again for this tip. Oil stained white roos do not need to be discarded and replaced after all. This may have a big effect on Curt's sales. Sorry Curt. I know I won't be ordering so many replacement pads from now on.

 

[jicaino]

Everything good is bad for you.

amen to that

 

[Chris Peryagh]

Stop the presses! Thanks to Chris, I gave Tolulene another try on the black oil stained pad and it worked beautifully. This time I let the pad dry completely, even using a hot air gun to speed up the process and the yucky green color turned back into bright white with the oil stain removed. Thanks again for this tip. Oil stained white roos do not need to be discarded and replaced after all. This may have a big effect on Curt's sales. Sorry Curt. I know I won't be ordering so many replacement pads from now on.

You should be able to remove the ink line you've drawn on (I presume that was done with a biro) as well as the rest of the oil and that pad will be as good as new.

The funny greeny-bluey colour is the colour of the leather - all white leather products (eg. drum major/bass drum gauntlets) tend to go that colour when they get wet, but solvents will evaporate causing minimal harm to the leather.

When I was checking the pad sizes in the pad cups some of the pads got oil on them from key barrels when I was shifting things around. Alcohol just spread the oil around more rather than removing it so I tried the Woodwind-All (which I think is a mix of mostly trichloroethane and some mineral oil) and that cleaned it up a treat. Even black marks from accidental contact with a silvercloth can be removed with this stuff. I've got loads of those white artists' rubbers (always keep them handy to rub out someone else's scrawlings on orchestral and pit band parts) so I'll give them a go on dry dirt.

 

[simso]

Everything good is bad for you.

Yep, the sweet truth of it all.

 

[Oric Muso]

I used this for removing dirty key oil from them: http://www.interstatemusic.com/weba...=40089365&langId=-1&parent_category_rn=20000# works a treat! Solvents such as trichloroethane (dry cleaning fluid) or toluene should do the same thing.

If that stuff is meant for bore conditioning and it removes oil, what's it going to do to clarients?
How/ where can you buy toluene?

 

[Chris Peryagh]

If that stuff is meant for bore conditioning and it removes oil, what's it going to do to clarients?
How/ where can you buy toluene?

It evaporates and leaves some oil behind, although it's most likely mineral oil so probably not much good for wooden instruments anyway. I only use it to remove excess gold paste when redoing logos on oboes and clarinets and cleaning skin, leather and cork pads with (as well as removing excess beeswax from oboe pads that have been sealed around their circumference). Surprisingly for an American product, it doesn't state what the ingredients are on the can.

I'm not sure where you can get toluene from, but you should be able to get some trichloroethane from any company (eg. a plating company or spray shop) that uses a degreasing tank or solvents to degrease bare metal prior to plating/painting. You can't even buy acetone in chemists anymore.

 

[jbtsax]

Tolulene is available in most well stocked painting supply stores. You might also try looking in a good hardware store. I also use it to thin contact cement.

 

[Raphyel]

I wonder however, if regular pads are doing the same thing, but maybe goes unnoticed because on a tan pad the color would simply blend in. I don't think Roopads are the only ones that collect dust and moisture. Also in some situations dirty pads can make a difference, but how big of a difference? Again, other than for aesthetics, how significant is it to make sure the pads stay white?

 

[adamk]

This is off topic, but I use mineral oil on my rosewood and ivory tenor recorder (on the outside and the bore).