Clarinet Hinge Screw Question
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1. Probably metric, but old French clarinets actually had inch threads. Since you'd most likely have to measure them anyway to know what they are specifically, does it really matter?
2. You can actually make a screw from brass, but I wouldn't use one for this purpose. IMO just not nearly strong and solid enough for this purpose.
2. You can actually make a screw from brass, but I wouldn't use one for this purpose. IMO just not nearly strong and solid enough for this purpose.
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never hurts to chase a thread, you clean it up in the process and if the old steel left something behind (oxide particles, etc) you're taking them out.
Appropiate steel is easier to thread (better results too) than brass.
Appropiate steel is easier to thread (better results too) than brass.
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IMO it would be crazy to guess the thread when buying a die. Some old French clarinets used a thread that was neither American, nor anywhere near standard metric, nor BA. Go figure.
You measure the pitch, and the outside diameter, and work it out from there.
Some slight bending of keys is used - standard procedure - for adjusting clarinets. A technician, assuming the screws were steel, would quite easily apply enough force to bend a brass screw. Brass is about 3 times weaker than steel.
You measure the pitch, and the outside diameter, and work it out from there.
Some slight bending of keys is used - standard procedure - for adjusting clarinets. A technician, assuming the screws were steel, would quite easily apply enough force to bend a brass screw. Brass is about 3 times weaker than steel.
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I wouldn't buy a "metric" or "imperial" die set. It might be metric, you buy a metric die set, and the size you need is not even there. I'd measure it exactly and get just the die(s) you need. A clarinet usually doesn't have more than about two thread sizes anyway, sometimes just one. Maybe this one is metric and the next time you need an imperial one?
I'd do what Gordon suggested. Get both metric and imperial thread measuring tools. Measure and get what you need. If you need something that isn't really available, some "manouvering" is possible with adjustable dies.
Re tapping the post, it might be necessary depending on the condition of the threads there (and if they are all ruined, you will need to tap to a bigger size or fill/bush and tap), it could help for the reasons Juan mentioned, but most likely that it isn't necessary (just statistics, most new rod screws needed dont't require retapping the post).
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I would drill out a larger diameter hole, fill the hole with an appropriate diameter brass or nickel rod and solder it into place, clean and once a hole has been drilled in the centre of the new stock, face off the brass level with the post, using files and specialist tools for squareing off hinge rods. if you remove too much material then the key will bee loose between its posts (probably likely in this instance anyhow as its a really old clarinet) you will then need to swedge (stretch) the key hinge to get a snug fit - that's a whole different ballgame!
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For a clarinet that has screwed-in posts, I would remove the post, fill the thread with silver-solder, re-mount it, re-drill it, and re-tap it.
I don't know if it makes any difference but the thread hole is not on a post. It is on the wood of the joint. There is a small steel piece fitted into the wood with the threaded hole in it.
So silver solder is hard enough to hole the thread. I would have thought it too soft.
Again- thanks for all your suggestions!
So silver solder is hard enough to hole the thread. I would have thought it too soft.
Again- thanks for all your suggestions!
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If the clarinet is made from timber, then I think you will find that that "small steel piece" is brass or cupro-nickel, and that if a screw driver slot is cut/milled into the top of it (not the face that has the threaded hole), it can be unscrewed.
By silver solder, I mean the brazing alloy (eg "Easyflow") with about 40+ % silver in it, melting when the work is red hot. It is similar hardness to brass and cupronickel. And plenty hard enough to hold a thread.
I don't mean the tin/silver (approx 95%/5%) alloy used as a double strength, corrosion-resistant, lead-free alternative to lead solder for soft soldering. That would be too soft.
By silver solder, I mean the brazing alloy (eg "Easyflow") with about 40+ % silver in it, melting when the work is red hot. It is similar hardness to brass and cupronickel. And plenty hard enough to hold a thread.
I don't mean the tin/silver (approx 95%/5%) alloy used as a double strength, corrosion-resistant, lead-free alternative to lead solder for soft soldering. That would be too soft.
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