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Who can recommend a clarinet tech who is expert at boring a barrel to perfection? I have an aftermarket wood barrel, 64mm, that I would like to have bored to the in and outgoing dimensions of my Selmer Series 9 66mm barrel. I do a lot of stuff myself but this is not one.
 

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Just out of curiosity, why do you think the barrel needs to be bored?
Have you measured the ID on the bottom of the barrel and top of the top joint and found a gross discrepancy?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just out of curiosity, why do you think the barrel needs to be bored?
Have you measured the ID on the bottom of the barrel and top of the top joint and found a gross discrepancy?
It's not a Selmer barrel. Yes, the bore is different; smaller. I don't like the added resistance.
 

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Buffets, some time ago now, proudly announced their "polycylindrical bore.
AFAIK that largely referred to the barrel being of smaller bore than the rest.
I think Selmer probably do similarly.

If you just want it bored out to a specific diameter, that is pretty easy for any technician with a lathe.
what acoustic effects that will have is anybody'es guess unless they are one of the very rare people who have profound expertise in the acoustic deign of clarinets.
 

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Good morning! What is it exactly that you want modified, the bore taper, the barrel socket to body to a new depth that matches the longer Selmer barrel tenon if there’s a gap? Who made this aftermarket barrel and was it made to Selmer specs.?

Who can recommend a clarinet tech who is expert at boring a barrel to perfection? I have an aftermarket wood barrel, 64mm, that I would like to have bored to the in and outgoing dimensions of my Selmer Series 9 66mm barrel. I do a lot of stuff myself but this is not one.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Good morning! What is it exactly that you want modified, the bore taper, the barrel socket to body to a new depth that matches the longer Selmer barrel tenon if there’s a gap? Who made this aftermarket barrel and was it made to Selmer specs.?
I can't tell you (don't know the exact manufacturer) who made this generic wood barrel. The task is to match my Series 9 bore in diameter and taper and have it come out very smooth. Should be easy for the skilled in this area. Socket depth is OK.
 

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Sacks, if it plays well I would advise you not to worry about the small step in the bottom end of the barrel bore as it joins the upper tenon. It would have to be reamed so carefully and it may make no difference at all.
 

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Sacks, if it plays well I would advise you not to worry about the small step in the bottom end of the barrel bore as it joins the upper tenon. It would have to be reamed so carefully and it may make no difference at all.
That's the thing - it doesn't play the same. It resists. I think I will abandon this endeavor as this barrel was cheap anyway.
 

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If it was so cheap, put some sandpaper on your finger and have at it.
Since you have a way to measure the ID you shouldn't have much difficulty keeping the sidewall dimensions uniform. The taper.... you'll have to rely on tactile input.
 

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If it was so cheap, put some sandpaper on your finger and have at it.
Since you have a way to measure the ID you shouldn't have much difficulty keeping the sidewall dimensions uniform. The taper.... you'll have to rely on tactile input.
Yeah, that's where this thing is going. The only issue is the burnishing to a shine. It's gonna be a project when I have absolutely nothing else to do around the house, perhaps in January when the gigs aren't there working outdoors is not an option.
 

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Yeah, that's where this thing is going. The only issue is the burnishing to a shine. It's gonna be a project when I have absolutely nothing else to do around the house, perhaps in January when the gigs aren't there working outdoors is not an option.
Soft wax, a 12ga mouse, and a variable speed drill will put a sweet shine in there.
 

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I can't see how a small increment in barrel diameter creates "resistance".
I suspect you may have a leak or three.

It is quite possible that the original barrel was even smaller bore. It is common for the barrel diameter to be slightly smaller than the rest of the body.
 

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If you still want to do this Eric Satterlee at Meridian Winds in Michigan does expert work and even makes custom barrels.
Eric did a graft on my middle daughters oboe. Amazing work. Unless you know exactly where the repair was made you would never guess any work was done.
I mentioned that I was referred to him by one of his friends, and former SOTW member, and received a small 'friends and family' discount.
He may be 'pricey' but his work is exceptional.
 

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I've played a few Series 9 clarinets in good repair, and resistance is never an issue, at least with a stock Selmer barrel. They blow like crazy. Many of the aftermarket mouthpieces available are Kaspar copies and have a bore to match old large bore clarinets like the Series 9. Some of the interest in aftermarket barrels is in trying to transition from those mouthpieces to smaller bore clarinets like the R13. It's a better solution to look for a used Series 9 barrel in the length you need than to diddle around with sounds like a cheap aftermarket barrel.If the horn is still resistant with a Series 9 barrel, then I agree with Gordon, you have leaks.
 
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