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Distinguished SOTW Member/ Forum Contributor 2010
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just picked up this C-mel on eBay for $250. I know most people aren't interested in these, but I just couldn't resist a two-tone finish. So classy! When I got it, it looked awful. It also needed some corks replaced. After a half-day's worth of elbow grease, it plays in tune and looks like a stunner:



fm
 

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wish you had posted a BEFORE photo also...It does look fantastic!
 

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Distinguished SOTW Member, Forum Contributor 2015
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Wow, that's beautiful. The nicest-looking C-mel I've seen, actually. And for $250? Congrats! You should send that over to Saxpics as a calendar entry!

Pete
 

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Distinguished SOTW Member/ Forum Contributor 2010
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the compliments guys! Actually, the very same week, I picked up a Conn two-tone C-mel...the tarnish is even worse that this one but the Conn has gold-plated engraving, so I think it will look even cooler than this one. Will post pics of that one when I'm done. I've already taken BEFORE pics of it.

fm
 

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Fungus,
What silver cleaner did you use? I was given a true tone alto, silver with gold wash bell that plays fantastic but looks like your before pic. I want to do a cleanup on mine too.
 

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Distinguished SOTW Member, Forum Contributor 2007-
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Wow!

Are those gold/brass keys?

Mine still looks like yours before all the cleanup work (except with silver keys). Please let us know how you did that.
 

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rsclosson said:
Fungus,
What silver cleaner did you use? I was given a true tone alto, silver with gold wash bell that plays fantastic but looks like your before pic. I want to do a cleanup on mine too.
Here's probably more than you ever wanted to know about the topic:
Cybersax.com Q&A Link
 

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Distinguished SOTW Member/ Forum Contributor 2010
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks guys!

This finish is silver-plated body, gold-plated keys. What a great combination...

All I did was go over it by hand with Wrights silver polish and a rag. I cut the rag into strips so I could get into tight places. I ended up removing the top stack completely so I could get into those places more easily. The bottom stack and the bell were a cinch without key removal. I've also used Silvo, but I like Wrights better.

Don't bother with the Yamaha silver polish...it simply isn't aggressive enough to get the tarnish off of a heavily tarnished horn. Silver cloths work, but you'll go through a lot of them to finish off a whole horn in this condition. They're good to maintain the finish though.

Some people use Tarnex to get the heavy tarnish off before going over it with silver polish. It does make it easier, but I really don't like using it because it is contains carcinogens.

It takes work though...I was sweating like a dog doesn't by the time I was through.

fm
 

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Hey that's a sweet looking horn! How's it play?

But your 'before' picture doesn't look all that bad either. The fact that the leather handle is still intact on the case is always a good sign with a horn of that vintage.

Here's what I typically see in a before shot (the top one was worse but in this shot it had already had the bell cleaned up a bit):


 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Chu-Jerry,
It plays better than any C-mel I've played. Your right...my horn wasn't as bad as the one you pictured. But the Conn two-tone C-mel I have DOES look as bad as the one in your shots. I know I'll have to strip that one down completely since the pads are shot as well.

fm
 
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