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Cannonball key heights

1697 Views 22 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  habschi2
Hi, thanks for looking and thanks for any clue on this in advance:

Just purchased a used Cannonball Big Bell 107000 Tenor.
Wonderful instrument, only suffers from bad intonation caused by bad adjustment of key heights.
Particularily the left hand korks for key heights are almost gone.
G to middle-oktave key connection kork almost gone.
Right hand k.h. korks have been partly filed so that right hand is too open.
So here´s my question:
Is there a "general" kork thickness for the left and/or right hand openings, that anyone knows of ?
Or does anyone have an original instrument in good condition where he might be able to measure the original key hights ?
Any help on this is highly appreciated !
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Just to pipe in....I sold this horn to habschi2. The key feet have individual adjusters for the stack keys, much like a Conn 30M. Easy to adjust. ***correction: the adjustors are lost motion adjusters so you can set the key height independently...I mis-spoke***I opened the key heights for personal preference as it matched the large bore older Link STM that I was using. The closer spacing worked with the included JK mouthpiece, which I seem to have misplaced or (likely) loaned to some student. It might be helpful (this to habschi2) if you provided more detail of your experience (mouthpiece type...high baffle, lg. chamber) and the problem (upper stack/register sharp or flat compared to lower), and relation to palm and bell keys.
As the poor sot who set up the horn that started all this discussion...I think it makes the point. I set this horn up for myself to play loud rock and roll with a Link. I liked the brashness of the wide open keys on the Cannonball, and tweaked a little to get the intonation close enough that I could easily compensate. I know, however, that it didn't work with a Berg /1 or a Ponzol ML at all, but I didn't care. I assume that when I sell a horn, the new owner may have different preferences and, over time, have it adjusted, but if I'm selling a horn that plays top to bottom (for me) I will stand behind it. If I sell locally, I'm willing to make some adjustments, but mailing a horn back and forth (this one went overseas) for preference adjustments is nonsense...most geographies have techs who can do the subtle final tweaks. I agree with both Gordon and MusicMedic, and my more accomplished player/customers come with preferences and opinions and these are honored. With most modern horns, I do find that the best intonation falls within a range where small changes (1-2 mm) will actually change the timbre of the affected notes. Most accomplished players care more about the timbre/response than the last 5 cents of intonation variation (which is easily adapted to), and that is what I find them ask me to do.
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