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Can anyone give me advice on how to eliminate a black mark in the finish of a vintage sax that has already been relacquered? It appears to be a burn. Thanks in advance for your help.
 

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Is the burned lacquer around a re-solder spot? That's usually the case, or else lacquer was burned on a keycup while apad was being replaced.

The only way to take care of it is to remove the lacquer from that spot and spot lacquer it and hope that you can match the lacquer color.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Burn

Yes, I do believe the burn is from solder work. Is it possible that the burn is on the brass itself? I seems to be so hard to remove that I assumed it must be deeper than the lacquer.
 

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Nope, brass may discolor some with heat, but it won't burn. Get some good brass polish, or maybe even the finest steel wool that you can find. The discoloring should come off without too much of a fuss.
 

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Do the above and then shoot a little clear lacquer over the area. I use the #0000 steel wool (soft) or wet emery paper in a #1500-2000. This may only be found at auto paint shops.
 

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No, use the wool to remove the hard rough stuff and then polish with brasso. If you are putting lacquer on, clean it well to get the brasso residue off.
 

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Some people are very very nervous of steel wool on brass - it can leave tiny pieces of steel ambedded in the surface of the brass - if this ever meets water you get the most hellish looking mess and the steel rusts...

Bronze wool is available - and there are other abrasives.
 

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DougR said:
Some people are very very nervous of steel wool on brass - it can leave tiny pieces of steel ambedded in the surface of the brass - if this ever meets water you get the most hellish looking mess and the steel rusts...
I've delaqcuered many horns and used steel wool in the finishing process and fortunately for me this has never been a problem. Nothing like a power shower to shift all the crud off afterwards :D

It shouldn't be an issue if LQ is going back over the affected area as it will be air tight and dry if done correctly, hence not suitable for rust to manifest itself.

By the way Doug, Lovely part of the world you come from.
 

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I sort of come from Wales too. My family left (or was chased out) in the late 1600s. AH, America, the land of the absconders!
 

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bruce bailey said:
I sort of come from Wales too. My family left (or was chased out) in the late 1600s. AH, America, the land of the absconders!
And the new arrivals - I'm from Scotland originally - the guy next door is from Sicily!
 

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Gold Lacquer

Does anyone know of a ready made gold lacquer (in the UK)to brush on small areas or a way of making a gold lacquer?

Thanks,
MMM
 

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Mix a small ammount of brown paint with nail varnish. If it's too dark, dilute with more nail varnish. Very durable, and if done with care, hardly noticeable.
 

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Thanks Russ,

do you mean mixing the nail varnish with clear lacquer?

Thanks,
M
 

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MMM said:
Thanks Russ,

do you mean mixing the nail varnish with clear lacquer?

Thanks,
M
No, clear nail varnish with brown paint. I had a beautiful Dark gold lacquered Buffet SDA with a blemish on the lacquer on the bell lip. Covered it a treat, followed by a buff with some rubbing compound on a cloth, the blemish was virtually invisible. Rubbing compound is also very good for repairing skipping CD's too !!:D
 
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