Those of you who are playing or have played a Buescher True Tone, what do you think of the ergonomics? The vintage sax article on this site calls the keywork a bit "slow." What's your opinion?
The alto? Heck, I dumped an SBA for mine. But yeah, I've held horns with slicker action. That's not why folks play 'em though. Still, I'd deem it sturdier action. And folks who grew up on Yamahas might not recognize it as such...
I think it depends on the model. True tones had several changes in the key placement, shape, etc. throughout production. It's outlined really well on saxpics.com. The later ones are pretty decent, with the half circle G# roller and such. I play on a True Tone Soprano (curved) and love it, a couple of ergonomic challenges initially but after some work and instruction from a couple of great teachers, my technique is pretty darn good! I don't even use palm key risers. I did, however, have the pearl G# removed and a roller G# (similar to what came standard on later True Tones) added.
It's awkward at first, but you get used to it. The only bad thing is the placement of the e flat key, which you kinda have to bend your pinky to hit, and it goes sideways, not down. The small g sharp key is also a bit weird. The palm keys are fine if you use palm key risers.
I've got all my Bueschers "gimped out" with palm key risers, and side key risers. My soprano is very fast. With the right set-up, they are hard to beat tone wise.
Yup palm risers are definitely necessary for the horn, never tried the side key risers but I want to. Its my only tenor, but it is most definitely slower then the keywork on either of my Martin altos.
My '21 curved soprano has a very awkward low Bb key and nothing above high Eb but is otherwise without nasty flaws tho without crispness of late model Yanagisawa
If the horn only goes up to Eb, remove the cork connection of the palm Eb>D so you can depress the Eb only. This way, you can get a great high E and F using stack fingerings. You may need to add a cork for the Eb to body.
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