[mjs10]

buescher true tone curved soprano pads (pictures attached now)

Can anyone tell me which pads are good for my buescher curved? I saw some in musicmedic.com and got confused to choose which one to get. Roopads looks good. Should i get the pads with resonator? which one?

Anyone knows any other pads online supplier/shop?

Also what is buescher snap in pads? I was thinking maybe this one is more suitable.

Please help. I wanna try doing my first time overhaul. If I screw up I always can go to my tech =)

 

[saintsday]

If the snaps are still there, please use them.

http://www.cybersax.com/Buescher Resto Issues.html

 

[saintsday]

I just looked at the original auction. If the serial number is correct, the horn is too old for snaps and the couple of pads showing in the pics don't have them.

 

[mjs10]

I just looked at the original auction. If the serial number is correct, the horn is too old for snaps and the couple of pads showing in the pics don't have them.

so what do you recommend? I have got it dissassembled, pads removed, shellac remains cleaned. I have the horn diped in the baking soda, salt, foil and hot water. =)

I am doing my own overhaul with this experiment horn hehehe

 

[saintsday]

I'd probably do these http://www.musicmedic.com/catalog/products/pad-s25-98.html but it would be worth calling them to see if they have a specific suggestion.

 

[Grumps]

I've got my early TT soprano equipped with the Selmer nylon styled resonators and it sings just fine.

 

[Dave Dolson]

I have two straight TT sops from 1928 . . . one with snaps and one with the Selmer-type pads and resos described by Grumps. Both play fine but I like the resonance of the horn without snaps better. For sure, no one can say the slight differences are because of the pads, though. DAVE

 

[mjs10]

bahh helllp...I snaped one of the spring!!

I cant put it back in cus theres still a remaining of the spring in the little hole. How to take the rest out?

 

[clarnibass]

You need broken spring removing pliers which might work, or you can use something thin enough (or at least with the end thin enough) to push the broken spring out. Possibly another spring, or a punch.

 

[mjs10]

You need broken spring removing pliers which might work, or you can use something thin enough (or at least with the end thin enough) to push the broken spring out. Possibly another spring, or a punch.

I tried and I can see its rusted inside, so it sort of like sticks...would using wd 40 helps?

 

[mjs10]

I have two straight TT sops from 1928 . . . one with snaps and one with the Selmer-type pads and resos described by Grumps. Both play fine but I like the resonance of the horn without snaps better. For sure, no one can say the slight differences are because of the pads, though. DAVE

My tech suggest for not using the snaps, instead of using regular pads with plastic reso would have better result. He doesnt like snaps for some reason, didnt ask why tho...All I know if I screw up with this little project, he is there to help hehehe.

 

[clarnibass]

I don't know if WD40 will help or not, but I've never had to use it to remove a spring. Some people like it but some say it actually CAUSES rust, so who know (certainly not me)?!

You say you tried to remove the broken spring. How? If you don't have the broken spring removing pliers (or you do and they don't work in this case) you can hold a spring (or anything tough, hard and thin enough) and hammer on it, which might release the broken spring. I would hold it with something like patent pliers (these are the ones that grab and stay when you press), hold them in the position, and hammer on the pliers (cut the spring to not come out from the other side of the pliers unles you can't hammer there or if there isn't a space problem). Support the post form the other side with something like a piece of wood.

About the pads - I've never had a saxophone with a problem caused by the type of pads and resonators I put on it, and I think it is the same for others. I use pads from Music Center, but I've tried Percision pads (like the ones from MusicMedic) and although I prefer the Music Center ones, the Percisions are pretty good (and less expensive).

 

[Grumps]

My tech suggest for not using the snaps, instead of using regular pads with plastic reso would have better result. He doesnt like snaps for some reason, didnt ask why tho...

Some techs consider them a bother, but since your horn is too old to have them, it's really a non-issue. It certainly wouldn't be worth it to install studs and snaps on a horn that never had them. However, if you come across one that does retain them, and your tech recommends taking them out, then it's time to find a new tech.

 

[Dave Dolson]

I agree with Grumps to a certain extent - if your horn wasn't made with the snap-in studs OR they were removed before you obtained it, just re-pad the the thing with suitable pads and resos and enjoy it.

However, the disagreement over whether to re-pad with snaps or not continues here, much like finish-doesn't-affect-sound, large chambered mouthpieces are required for vintage saxophones, and big-bore vs. small-bore saxophones, etc.

I don't think that removing the snaps and re-padding with modern pads and resos is a fatal flaw. I've done it - and my '28 TT sop which I had repadded with Selmer-style pads and plastic resos plays as good or better than any TT I've ever played (and that would be many) AND better than my other '28 TT with snap-ins. Some of my Bueschers have snaps and some don't - and they all play great.

If the concern is SOLELY about collector-value, the advice to always use snap-ins on a repad may have some merit. But for playability, not an issue - at least for me. And, if I'm in the market for a Buescher saxophone that should have snap-ins, but doesn't - I'd still buy it if it played well (most do). DAVE

 

[ChuBerry47]

I have played them with conn reso pads. The Roo Pads are an apropriate alternative as well. Buy the ones with the domed metal resonators.

 

[Grumps]

Yeah, I'm in it for the value Dave, not the sound argument, as far as snap-ins go.

 

[mjs10]

Grumps and Dave, you are spot on...

I am aiming for playability and sound...I dont think I would sell this one as this is my experiment horn. As long as I can re assemble it properly and plays nice...I will be very happy. I'[ll take some pictures on what I have been doing.

Anothe question...this horn has soldered neck join and the neck is soldered on the body (so its not detachable, or made not detachable). Question is...is the original btt has a separable neck or screw-joint like most others horns.

Clarnibas...the pin head that holds the needle spring still has the remain of the needle. the problem is the needle was snaped right on the hole so theres no way I can pull it (theres nothing popping out, everything is inside that ******n hole)

I tried using a sewing needle and hammer and it hurt my pointy finger big time!! yea bleeding and all

Chu-yeah the roopads are what I am gonna get with plastic reso...

 

[Seasax]

why not consider maestro resos?

 

[mjs10]

Here are some pictures with some questions of course =)

Pinhead next to a hole (in the middle) has no needle spring (snaped), the remain is still in that pinhead

Anyone can tell me whats that green stuff inside the tube??

Some silverplate is missing on this one

Soldered neck, what do you think?

Bell looks ok, 1 minor ding on the side. This photo was taken after wash.

Assortment of keys and bits and pieces. I actually dont have any idea on which one goes where =)

These 2 pictures shows the cleaned cup, is it clean enough for the new pad?

Overall body tube

I am excited as this is my first time doing this thing. I never thought I would disasemble a horn before after almost 9 years playing this thing.

 

[clarnibass]

the pin head that holds the needle spring still has the remain of the needle. the problem is the needle was snaped
right on the hole so theres no way I can pull it (theres nothing popping out, everything is inside that ******n hole)

I tried using a sewing needle and hammer and it hurt my pointy finger big time!! yea bleeding and all

I'm not exactly sure how you tried to do it, and maybe you didn't understand what I suggested?

The type of pliers I'm refering to are like this http://www.bigmarket.co.il/images/itempics/4540005_large.jpg

Here is a picture of how you can try. The pliers should be as close as possible to the post (more than in the picture).
It is best if you have someone to help you (maybe to hold the instrument and the wood). Sorry about my drawing skills.

View attachment 3404

About the keys, it is too late now... but next time what you can do (maybe you did it actually) is take some pictures
before you disassemble it so you know how it should be. Also you can write down the order of the keys so you know
which has to go first, etc.

By the way, what camera do you have? I'm just about to buy a new one and your pictures look very good.