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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have checked the various threads on this subject all very usefull but I need to know how the joint is heated all round so that it can be twisted into the correct position.
I picked up this Taiwan alto the other day and thought I'd have a go at repairing it. Amazingly it was named " Student Prince, Modern Sound, Taiwan" and has quite a nice engraving on the bell, but it seemed that at sometime in its life It must have had a big bang.The bell had been removed and soldered back on but about 3/16 the wrong way and the bell keys missed the activating connecting bars completely.
Also the bell stay was bent. So how do I remove and resolder. I have a small gas torch (Butane) but can't heat evenly all round . I also need about four pairs of hands to do the job. Any help would be appreciated.
Steven Howard useually does my work but didnt want to bother him with this one as its not that important and the cost would probably exceed the value of the horn.
 

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You've about got it. You need a helping hand or two.

You will need at least two torches moving evenly opposite of each other and a way to apply light torque to the bell so that as the solder gives you can twist it out, up, and away. Two people is easiest: one to double-torch it, and one to hold the body and bell while applying torque.

You will also want to apply some sort of heat shield (like Kool Jool) to the posts nearest the joint.

Getting it apart is much more difficult than putting it back together.
 

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A couple of "tricks" I learned as a repair tech in an overhaul shop that did lots of tuba and sousa repairs as well as sax for disassembly...

Find some thin cardboard, the type used in the back of a legal pad or gift box. To remove the bell to body brace or any other brace joint, heat the joint up enough to pull the joint apart then slide a piece of the cardboard under the joint.This takes surprisingly little heat and when it cools it won't resolder itself.

On the bell joint ring be patient and heat the ring by moving the flame all around the joint. Hold the joint in an orientation so that when the heat conducts through thejoint it conducts to a cool section of the joint and not to the body or bottom bow where posts are located. Keep pressure on the joint so that as it heats it will move and seperate.

This is easier for me to do than describe. It can be done easily "solo" with some practice, and there is no need for two torches. I would be surprised if S. Howard uses two torches or needs a helper, even if it might be easier with one. This is not a criticism of abadcliche's technique. If you are in a shop flying solo you figure out how to do things without a helper. If you have a helper then by all means have them help!

Matt
 

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Before you jump in to try to repair the sax you might want to drop in and just ask Stephen to diagnose what needs to be done. Not seeing the sax it is hard to tell, but it may just be a bell-body alignment problem that does not require the bell section to be unsoldered in the first place. It would be a shame to go to all that trouble and find out it wasn't needed to solve the problem.
 

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I agree with JBTsax re letting someone have a look at it first.

Sometimes it is not necessary to desolder the Bow-body joint in order to realign the bell keys and it can be done by manipuation.

personally if I ever have to remove a bell section or manipulate it back into position, then I also change the pads on the associated keys that have be misaligned. Theres noi point trying to get an existing pad to seal properly once it's tonehole has been moved and repositioned.It is far better to replace and sometimes less time consuming.IMHO

If you do a forum search for twisted bell then you'll probably come across a thread from a few weeks back re this subject.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for you replys guys. I'd love to take it to Steve to look at but he is nearly 300 miles away. I am fitting all new pads. Iv'e just had a further look and think I can fix this without moving the bell, by extending the connecting bar by about 1/8" Wood Natural material Metal Event Titanium
 

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I've done many repairs that may seem less than conventional, however extending the keys to repair either a twisted body or miss-soldered body is just silly. How will you modify the keys so that they are functional if you are not able to do the body alignment correctly? IMO, the problem that is causing the issue with the keys should be repaired.
Matt
 
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