Forum Contributor 2017
I'm curious to know what techs think of the differences between SS and Blue tempered springs.
Groovy Thanks SaxaholicHere are some prior threads that might help? Seems like some of them have quite a few of our "in-house" technicians commenting on them in various ways.
Music Medic's spring page might provide some insight as well. https://musicmedic.com/products/repair-supplies/springs.html
Diameter and length being the same, the good alloys of stainless steel have the same spring characteristics of blued steel. (I did not believe this when I first heard it - from Kraus, engineer and supplier to our trade - so I did a controlled test and found it was correct.)Since I started playing these old 60s Keilwerths with have stainless steel springs I have grown accustomed to them, they are fairly light action, I don’t think they give you the power of good blue steel, but I like my action on the lighter side anyway. They feel absolutely fine to me.
Indeed. Rust is really common with blued steel springs - both needle springs and flat springs.How about rust? My blue steel springs are showing some signs of rust. This may be because I spend the winter months near the ocean. Good quality SS does not rust and should last longer.
How ‘bout surface treatments?How about rust? My blue steel springs are showing some signs of rust. This may be because I spend the winter months near the ocean. Good quality SS does not rust and should last longer.
Buffet used gold plated non-tapered springs. I don't know what's under the plating. They are great on 2 horns I have from the 70s. Even so, gold is not permanent as the Nortons on my TH&C would indicate. Then I have some original blued springs on a 1930 Conn which look perfect despite wear and corrosion on the silver plate.Those gold-plated Norton springs on Bueschers seem to last well. TiN has a nice gold color, is relatively hard so it doesn’t scratch as easily as gold, and very corrosion resistant.