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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Mark VI Baritone, that has had a rough time. The side C & Bb keys are bent and so are the rods inside them.

How do I remove the rods and cause as little damage as possible? Normally I would un-solder one of the posts, but in this case the posts are joined to the stack.
 

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Few questions;

Do the rod screws move at all? Can you determine if the hinge tubes on the keys are bent downwards in the middle of tehkey/hinge tube causing the problems on their own? Or might it be because the outside posts are bent out of alignment enough so that they can't be backed straight out? Are the posts damaged near or on the post ball hole where the rods are inserted? It could also be a mix of any or all the above.

I have seen the round holes in the post balls damaged and/or "peened" over so much that even with a straight and free moving screw, the screw was tough to get out past the ends. Should be an easy diagnosis with some answers to the above. If the key's hinge tubes are bent into a "v" shape, so is the screw contained inside it. This will require carefully putting a thick/heavy duty screwdriver tip or some other type of wedging device underneath the key where the hinge tube is silver soldered and pryed up enough to straighten the hinge tube out enough to get it apart. Then the real work of straightening everything out begins.
 

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More or less as above...

Use whatever means is appropriate and available - innovation to the fore - to straighten the tube and rod as much as possible, while still on the instrument, while ensuring that no undue forece is put on other parts, eg posts, that may cause further damage.

When this is done successfully, the rod will unscrew, and you can complete the straightening.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
JerryJamz2 said:
Few questions;

Do the rod screws move at all? Can you determine if the hinge tubes on the keys are bent downwards in the middle of tehkey/hinge tube causing the problems on their own? Or might it be because the outside posts are bent out of alignment enough so that they can't be backed straight out? Are the posts damaged near or on the post ball hole where the rods are inserted? It could also be a mix of any or all the above.

Thanks for your reply. The rod screws do move, however the keys are, as you say, bent into a V shape. There is no damage to the posts.

I managed to move it, from about 45 degrees to about 25 degrees with a screwdriver, but if I try to use more leverage, I'll most likely cause damage to the body.
 

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Sacks Tough said:
Thanks for your reply. The rod screws do move, however the keys are, as you say, bent into a V shape. There is no damage to the posts.

I managed to move it, from about 45 degrees to about 25 degrees with a screwdriver, but if I try to use more leverage, I'll most likely cause damage to the body.
If you are careful and since there is a saddle plate connecting each of the sets of posts together, you can put quite a bit of brute force on the saddle plate when used as a lever fulcrum which should not damage the body tube, within reason. Either that or you'll have to cut the rods out with a jewelers saw/dremel tool by cutting them between the hinge tube ends and the posts (the very narrow gap where they meet).
 

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Use a lever system that pushes up on the V bend, and down with an equal force on one of the (protected) posts (or the rod near the post). This will exert some force up on the other post, so at the same time press apply force down on that post with your thumb.

The end result, if done carefully, will be almost no strain on the mounting of the posts.

For such a lever I sometimes use robust, long-nose pliers with bent jaws, with some softish material around the jaws.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the advise, I'll give it another go, but I've already prepared myself to use the jewllers hack saw.

Just hope I can order the right rods, the ones I have are going to be too thick.

Matt
 

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Straighten the bent one.
 

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If you can't straighten it and have to make a new one, I doubt it is thinner than the sizes easily available from one of the instrument repair suppliers (I think from 1.90mm to 3.05mm).
 
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