ATG reed adjustment and effects on reed strength
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Joined
·
1,671 Posts
I use it mostly to thin the tip. It will soften the reed but if the reed is very hard you can't only thin the tip. You have to also take some wood from rest of the reed. Every reed is different. Some reeds only need the tip thinned to become playable. The instruction manual is very comprehensive. It's a useful tool. You don't need a Reed-O-Meter to use this system. With experience you will know which part of the reed needs adjustment when you test it.
Joined
·
353 Posts
What I don't know is, the location/point on the reed of where the strength of the reed measured? At the Heart or the Vamp?? If the reed strength is measured at the Heart, then a reed that is too hard and/or not responding in the upper register would be changed *possibly* from a say... 2.5 back to a 2 in strength when removing material from the Heart of the reed to make it playable.
Joined
·
20,236 Posts
From the material that I've read, the area that determines the 'strength' of a reed is between the top of the heart and the tip.
Closer to the tip than the heart.
To make a reed that is unresponsive in the upper register more 'responsive' you will need to remove a little material from both sides of the reed at the TOP of the heart. Do NOT remove any material from the tip or the heart.
An 'overall' too hard reed can be 'softened' simply by sanding the entire flat side.
Closer to the tip than the heart.
To make a reed that is unresponsive in the upper register more 'responsive' you will need to remove a little material from both sides of the reed at the TOP of the heart. Do NOT remove any material from the tip or the heart.
An 'overall' too hard reed can be 'softened' simply by sanding the entire flat side.
Joined
·
4,727 Posts
Bandmommy is (again!) right on the money. Every reed book I have read, every teacher I have had, and every person I have talked to have all said "Do not take material away from the heart of the reed". Every time I have ignored this advice I have ended up throwing the reed away.
I guess my basic question is - why do you care about the strength of the reed? If it plays, it plays. If it doesn't play, fix it.
FWIW, I am an avid user of the ATG system. I have been playing saxophone for over 50 years, clarinet a little longer than that, and I bought this system a couple years ago, and couldn't be happier.
I guess my basic question is - why do you care about the strength of the reed? If it plays, it plays. If it doesn't play, fix it.
FWIW, I am an avid user of the ATG system. I have been playing saxophone for over 50 years, clarinet a little longer than that, and I bought this system a couple years ago, and couldn't be happier.
Joined
·
1,671 Posts
Joined
·
1,671 Posts
Do you sand the flat side all the way to the tip. I sand the flat side but I stop at least an inch before the tip. Do you realize when you flatten the flat side of the reed your are taking material from the heart of the reed.
Joined
·
20,236 Posts
If I need to turn a 4 into a 2.5 I'll sand the ENTIRE flat side a little then go to work on top. I take a little more off from the perimeter of the heart area.
99% of the adjustments needed will be made on the top of the reed in the areas surrounding the heart.
The last resort 1% will require taking some material from the heart.
I gave the OP a suggestion on where to adjust for a more responsive upper register.
Please note that I did not say that you NEVER take material from the heart.
I'm not in the mood for a 'debate' or 'nit picking'.
The OP had a question, I answered it according to the material I have read, and what I was taught.
Joined
·
353 Posts
My apologies, I did find a part in Tom Ridenour's video about adjusting the Heart area for fixing the upper register. But what is interesting that the strength of the reed is taken from the Heart. Therefore the 3 strength Vandoren's that I have bought are quite possibly 2.5 now. It really doesn't bother me, it is interesting to think about.
I pretty much don't think about reed strength now, I just focus on making them play. I have been incredibly surprised how quickly and easily I can fix reeds. I wish I had known about this 20 years ago.
I pretty much don't think about reed strength now, I just focus on making them play. I have been incredibly surprised how quickly and easily I can fix reeds. I wish I had known about this 20 years ago.
Joined
·
2,969 Posts
If you try to avoid the heart completely, you'll adversely affect the integrity of the reed's spring form. Plus, you'll overcomplicate what is otherwise an amazingly simple but effective system. And I agree with you -- it is quick and easy. After many years of dedicated adjusting with reed knives, I actually laughed out loud in joy and disbelief the first time I played a reed after trying out the ATG system on it. I also wish I had known about it much sooner.
You can go up in reed strength if you want to. But then you'll have to give them all some fairly significant ATGing even if they only really need just a couple of swipes to even them out. I did that initially, but I've since dropped back down in strength, and I just do enough adjusting to make them all play well.
Joined
·
4,727 Posts
I'm sorry bandmommy, I didn't mean to misquote you.
I still say never. Noting that the ATG system does not specify areas to work on, but rather the 5 basic strokes (1 of which can attack the heart directly, and 2 of which do "graze" the sides of the heart area), I still say leave it alone. You will affect it using these strokes, as Buck mentions, but concentrate on the stroke, not the area. If you are conscious of working on the heart, there is a big risk you will ruin the reed.
Of course, I am probably as clumsy with reed tools as I am at quoting...
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
