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Hi guys, I‘m down here in Costa Rica and my guy down here just overhauled this 1960s Bundy Keilwerth tenor for me. Your expert feedback is greatly appreciated! here’s a mishmash of upper stack and lower stack pics.
Hi guys, I‘m down here in Costa Rica and my guy down here just overhauled this 1960s Bundy Keilwerth tenor for me. Your expert feedback is greatly appreciated! here’s a mishmash of upper stack and lower stack pics.
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I've repaired saxes for many years IMO they are definitely too low. They should be about another 1/3 opened, requiring careful sanding of corks, including adjustments.Hi guys, I‘m down here in Costa Rica and my guy down here just overhauled this 1960s Bundy Keilwerth tenor for me. Your expert feedback is greatly appreciated! here’s a mishmash of upper stack and lower stack pics.
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Another third of what?I've repaired saxes for many years IMO they are definitely too low. They should be about another 1/3 opened, requiring careful sanding of corks, including adjustments.
InchAnother third of what?
I think you want the keys open enough to get the tone you prefer, but not so open that your note to note reaction time is adversely affected.Yep, they are what we term 'closed' compared to 'open'. Stan Getz liked his 'closed' and King Curtis liked his 'open'. I had my MK VI tenor overhauled (but my wallet was what got overhauled) and he left many problems which I'm still fixing but the horn is at least playable now. He put Teflon everywhere including on top of both corks in a stack key, which is too much material, so my action looks about like yours. I'm just going to have to tear it down and re-do the stacks. These horns came more open than that.
I don't think "reaction time" is a real concern with these small differences in opening (e.g., consider the much larger differences in key openings across tenor, alto, and soprano). Instead, the main concerns are (1) intonation and (2) evenness of timbre. Saxes are designed with the effects of key venting as an important consideration. If you substantially change the key venting from the design specifications, then the note-to-note relationships will no longer be correct.I think you want the keys open enough to get the tone you prefer, but not so open that your note to note reaction time is adversely affected.
It sounds like it's all very tricky. To some degree, that could be why a technician might specialize in a particular make of saxophone?I don't think "reaction time" is a real concern with these small differences in opening (e.g., consider the much larger differences in key openings across tenor, alto, and soprano). Instead, the main concerns are (1) intonation and (2) evenness of timbre. Saxes are designed with the effects of key venting as an important consideration. If you substantially change the key venting from the design specifications, then the note-to-note relationships will no longer be correct.
That would be a sign that it could be adjusted better, but...How is the intonation? Does it sound stuffy? Is the timbre consistent from note to note?
Hi Simon. Can you explain exactly the two points you are measuring from between the tonehole and pad? For example are you measuring to the outer rim of the pad or the pad seat?Measure them. There are many accepted key heights, but the majority of tenors fall between 8-10mm on the right hand F and 7-8mm on the left hand B. Many horns play great at 7 & 9 respectively. Sand to get rid of the lost motion after the B and F are set up. That's a start, but you can go down a rabbit hole fast
The bell keys you should be able to stick your finger in no problem, this may mess up your pinky stack though and you'd have to bend stuff around.
Best of luck.
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I personally use calipers to measure from the tone hole to the pad. Straight up and down. I also have a key height measuring tool that fits into the space between the pad and the tone hole. It is in increments of .5mms. I use this as a guide to get close but then the calipers are what I rely on to be precise. I will often set key heights .25mm lower than I want as the materials will compress over time.Hi Simon. Can you explain exactly the two points you are measuring from between the tonehole and pad? For example are you measuring to the outer rim of the pad or the pad seat?
So does "straight up" hit the pad around the outer perimeter of the pad seat in the leather? It seems to me measuring to the pad seat would be a good way to standardize measuring. "Straight up" could mean different things to different people unless everyone was using a tiny square gauge.I personally use calipers to measure from the tone hole to the pad. Straight up and down. I also have a key height measuring tool that fits into the space between the pad and the tone hole. It is in increments of .5mms. I use this as a guide to get close but then the calipers are what I rely on to be precise. I will often set key heights .25mm lower than I want as the materials will compress over time.
Does that make sense? I can try to clarify more if needed.
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Yes ... It will hit right around the pad seat when you do it correctly. Whether on the inner or outer diameter will depend on the key geometry, throw and desired height.So does "straight up" hit the pad around the outer perimeter of the pad seat in the leather? It seems to me measuring to the pad seat would be a good way to standardize measuring. "Straight up" could mean different things to different people unless everyone was using a tiny square gauge.
Hi guys, I‘m down here in Costa Rica and my guy down here just overhauled this 1960s Bundy Keilwerth tenor for me. Your expert feedback is greatly appreciated! here’s a mishmash of upper stack and lower stack pics.
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serial # 46,839Hey Larry, can you tell me what the serial number is on this one ?