Sax on the Web Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Mouthpiece Refacer Extraordinaire and Forum Contri
Joined
·
3,406 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Just posting to dote on my new alto love - a 10,xxx largebore. Bought it a bit hastily on eBay not really knowing what to expect or having had any prior experience with anything pre-BA.

Looked so nice in the pictures that I knew it had to be a relacq. Turns out it was originally silver plated which I think was pretty typical back then. It had been lacquered later on (still a long time back) but without any noticeable buffing as even the finest engravings are intact, though "lacquery". Evidence of some ding removal here and there but nothing serious.

Horn had been head to toe refurbed by Randy Jones and my excitement about this horn is as much an ringing endorsement of his workmanship as it is to the horn itself. Domed metal resos just big enough to ensure power but is easier on the ears to me than a Series III which I find too piercing. Only complaint about the setup is the low C spring is a bit weak and noticeably out of character with the otherwise perfect feel of the rest of the horn.

With the horn being older, my concerns were going to be intonation and ergonomics. Intonation is as good as any modern horn I've played - not one complaint. Ergonomics work for me as I play alto to the side - the inline stacks work for me just fine. The LH thumbrest is a bit to the left compared to where they are placed on more modern horns - so playing the horn at center (which I don't normally do) puts the thumbrest a little too far down the thumb. There is some room to shift it to the right, but I'm going to leave it right where it is as it works just fine with the horn to my side. The low Eb/C keys are a little too close to the lower stack, so my right pinky sometimes glances against the low D key. I'm noticing as I put more time on it that I am adjusting my own hand position to compensate which I figures would happen. So a noticeable but surmountable issue.

So far, I've been putting it through the paces on the "jazz setting". Ackerman high baffle brass, Ponzol Custom HR, Berg 130. Great tone and intonation as I've mentioned already. This weekend I'm going to flip it to "legit mode" and play it with a Soloist and probably get out some of my Airflows (which are probably of the same era) to see how they shake out.

As a player, I'm very excited about the distinguishable Selmer sound I'm able to get from the horn. As a tech, I'm excited to have the opportunity to review Randy's fine work. An inspiring acquisition on many levels.

Thanks for listening!

- Ed
 

·
Distinguished SOTW Member, Forum Contributor 2011
Joined
·
1,033 Posts
Welcome to the (small) Largebore community here! I endorse your overall positive conclusions about an uncommon horn.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Selmer New Larger-Bore Alto Saxophone Model No. 152-S. I'm looking into putting one up for sale that was used buy a professional musician. However, I don't know anything about Saxophones so it is hard for me to know what would be interesting/essential for a buyer to see and know about. What should I photograph so that a buyer would feel confident that the horn they were getting was really a Selmer and in excellent playing condition? What sort of provenance would be appreciated by someone looking to obtain a great instrument?

Thanks for any suggestions.
David Leffler
[email protected]
 

·
Distinguished SOTW Member, Forum Contributor 2015-
Joined
·
462 Posts
jdleffler said:
What should I photograph so that a buyer would feel confident that the horn they were getting was really a Selmer and in excellent playing condition? What sort of provenance would be appreciated by someone looking to obtain a great instrument?[/email]

For me, high quality photos of the bell engraving and inscriptions, the neck and the octave mechanism, and the bell key guards.
Cheers, Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
I had the chance to play 6 horns side by side at pontis music in n.y.c.,i was gigin in a.c.in the early 80s,the largebore was it ,a selmer sound like no other,kept the horn for 20 years,gotta love it,i was due to go threw a few more instruments,of course i miss the largebore.but my new old horns have their good points,so far the largebore is the horn i owned the longest of any horn.great horn........
 

·
Distinguished SOTW Member
Joined
·
2,960 Posts
i too had a great large bore but i sold it! stupid move-it ended up in the hands of the late great david bilger-thats how good it was! . better than my cig cutter i have now
 

·
Distinguished SOTW Member/ Forum Contributor 2011
Joined
·
573 Posts
Hi Potpphor !! EZ, I have a New largebore tenor, 13xxx, ca 1930, Selmer calls it a Cigar Cutter, but octave mech. different. It is better than my newe serie 111 and it squeaks out my Martin "The Martin Tenor, ca 1951) Anyhow, if you have difficulty with d# & low C, just "bend" the keys , one on top of other, they were made of stuff you can just about bend it anyway you want. The left side pinky keys are very close too, but practice solves that, you even get used to it, now the verey articulated horns are tougher ?? Good luck with this great horn.
BEEZER: What do you mean by the octave mech, not one over the top???
 

·
Mouthpiece Refacer Extraordinaire and Forum Contri
Joined
·
3,406 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the tip, 'Ol Honker. You are long time good buddies with 'Ol Screamer, aren't you? :)

The more I play it, the more I get used to it and the more I fall in love with it. I may consider manipulating the Eb/C key position if it's much of a bother in a few more weeks. If I'm a good lad and keep my fingers on the pearls, I stay out of trouble.

I'm quickly used to the LH key layout due my being familiar and comfortable with older Yani sopranos that have the Mark VI style keywork.

By the way, as I like to experiment with different necks, I thought I'd get out one of my JK necks to see what dimension it added to the horn. The receiver on the Selmer is HUGE. I've never had to expand a JK tenon to fit them to a horn before - they normally have to be compressed.
 

·
Distinguished SOTW Member, Forum Contributor 2015-
Joined
·
462 Posts
olhonker said:
BEEZER: What do you mean by the octave mech, not one over the top???
Olhonker,
I was referring to the Cigar cutter/Non cigar cutter mech. I perceive that the CC horns seem to fetch more than the non CC here in the UK anyway.
Over the top description = Over flowery item description in the Ebay auction in my link.
I had a non CC tenor 13079. Super horn, but the LH pinky keys didn't suit. I seem to remember that it was a lot lighter (weight) than my Mk6, and it was in bare brass. Wish I hadn't moved it on.
Cheers, Dave
(Oldhonker just about sums me up!)
 

·
Distinguished SOTW Member, Forum Contributor 2011
Joined
·
1,033 Posts
EZ said:
Thanks for the tip, 'Ol Honker. You are long time good buddies with 'Ol Screamer, aren't you? :)

The more I play it, the more I get used to it and the more I fall in love with it. I may consider manipulating the Eb/C key position if it's much of a bother in a few more weeks. If I'm a good lad and keep my fingers on the pearls, I stay out of trouble.

I'm quickly used to the LH key layout due my being familiar and comfortable with older Yani sopranos that have the Mark VI style keywork.

By the way, as I like to experiment with different necks, I thought I'd get out one of my JK necks to see what dimension it added to the horn. The receiver on the Selmer is HUGE. I've never had to expand a JK tenon to fit them to a horn before - they normally have to be compressed.
Talking of key bending, I had trouble getting low altissimo on my New Largebore alto, but sorted it out with a bit of judicious bending of the front F key - it sings up to the stratosphere now. I suspect it's a common problem with older horns that haven't been adjusted, because altissimo wasn't really on the agenda in the thirties.

Mine's been in the family since 1936, and there wasn't too much call for it in the dance music my dad played. Once I can scan it, I hope to post a 1938 piccy of it.
 

·
Mouthpiece Refacer Extraordinaire and Forum Contri
Joined
·
3,406 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
potiphar said:
...sorted it out with a bit of judicious bending of the front F key
To what height is front F opening for you now? (Edge of tonehole to pad at it's largest gap)
 

·
Distinguished SOTW Member, Forum Contributor 2011
Joined
·
1,033 Posts
EZ said:
To what height is front F opening for you now? (Edge of tonehole to pad at it's largest gap)
I make it 1.6mm.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top