Sax on the Web Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
200 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Does anybody have experience in fiberglassing a wooden sax case?

I know, I know, the advice is burn it and get a modern case. http://www.emoticonzone.com/msn-emot...ted/tsktsk.gif

I am in the process of rebuilding an old Buescher Tenor case. I will fiberglass it to give it but have one big concern: will the tolex stick to the fiberglass?

Should fiberglass the inside rather than the outside? I have made a test with cove glue (used for vinyl floors) and the results are so so.
So I am asking for advice from anyone that has done this before.
a. Fiberglass the inside or the outside (I lean towards the outside)?
b. What kind of glue did you use for the tolex or covering?. I am using a cool-looking fake alligator that is vinyl.

Any advice will be welcomed.
Thanks
Flava
 

·
Forum Contributor 2014, Distinguished SOTW Member
Joined
·
2,087 Posts
Your best bet is to use a thin layer of glass on both the inside and the outside of the case, using the wood as a core between the two. This will give you much more strength than the same amount of glass used either all inside or all outside. Once the resin cures you can scuff up the outside with some rough sandpaper and the vinyl will stick no problem. (I've not done a case before, but I used to work in a fiberglass repair shop for boats.)
 

·
Distinguished SOTW Member.
Joined
·
1,526 Posts
Spray contact adhesive (rubber cement) is the standard for Tolex or any vinyl work... Glassing your case interior is rather overkill... I am a cabinetmaker and yacht joiner BTW... While polyester resin is less costly, it is more brittle than an epoxy resin over glass cloth... You can add pigment to either polyester or epoxy resin prior to mixing catalyst & you can thicken either resin (collodial silica) 'after' catalyst for a thicker goop... These pics are a Buescher? case holding my Conn 6M 'tranny'... I got funny w/ a splatter job on it... This was a polyester resin job w/ pigment...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
i just had a thought... dad used to make surfboards and bodyboards... a couple anyway... rather than doing a fluro number on it... the old bass clarinet case may have a new lease of life... thinking a mask would be a good idea... cheers...
 

·
Non Resident SOTW Eccentric & 2012 Forum Contribut
Joined
·
3,259 Posts
Epoxy some carbon fibre roving on the outside using a WEST system compatible with both. Lighter and way stronger than glass and looks cool uncovered if well done. The west epoxy will saturate into the case and make it way stronger. Do both sides of the wood so you don't have moisture movement issues. Make sure the case is at less than 6% moisture content.

Polyester resin and wood have issues longer term if not well done. Kinda like if you have to ask you shouldn't do it. :mrgreen:Like I told my stepson this morning about working on brakes.

If you want to cover the case you can use stranded CF but it isn't quite as strong as roving. Scuff the epoxy with 320 grit paper to turn it hazy and almost any proper vinyl glue will stick. and the thinners won't affect the epoxy
 

·
Distinguished SOTW Member.
Joined
·
1,526 Posts
Jazzaferri, you are so right! Although WEST has wonderful expen$ive materials... Some less high tuned epoxies will suffice for a sax case... Kardol is a supplier of all such epoxy resin and cloth and etc...
 

·
Non Resident SOTW Eccentric & 2012 Forum Contribut
Joined
·
3,259 Posts
The thing with WEST is it gets into the wood really deep. The amount needed for a sax case is so small cost hopefully isn't a big issue. I was just down your way in late May. I do love the big T.
 

·
Distinguished SOTW Member.
Joined
·
1,526 Posts
Hypotherm is the term for manipulation by heating or cooling of various catalyzing resins... Simply stated... get it warm, kicks quick... keep it cool, kicks slow... To induce this 'deep' stuff, one warms the receiving material (heat guns or direct Florida sun)... 'and' your resin (thinned w/xylene) for max thinning... repeat w/ less xylene for next coats... BTW 'xylene' is 'xylol'...
 

·
Distinguished SOTW Member/Technician
Joined
·
21,030 Posts
Why cover a vintage case with anything but original type material? I fill in scuffs and nicks with plastic filler, sand and paint with vinyl covering. Looks original. If you want fiberglass, I would just by a new case.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
200 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks everyone for the advice and for sharing some of your experience. I will save using the West System till I do my strip-built kayak. :)

This morning I fiber-glassed the top of the case with what I had at hand: Bondo auto repair kit plus an extra piece of fiberglass to go with it.

I will post pics when I have the case finished or nearly finished. I was going to restore it to the 1950s look, but decided to "improve" the look. Will have to wait to see if I was right or not. Thanks again for your comments.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top