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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm an older adult, life-long alto sax player who has started learning the horn in the past 6 months. I recently turned in my rented single horn (Holton) and am now in the process of buying a new, double horn. My intentions are to play with a local New Horizons Band while continuing to learn the horn, and hopefully progress to a local, small orchestra, church orchestra, etc.

My price range is $2K - $3K. My local music shop carries both Accent and Yamaha. I've played both (not sure of the Accent model but the Yamaha was the 567. I liked them both. It also looks like the Holton H376, Conn 6D, Jupiter 952 RL, and Walter Nirschl D-780UL are within my price range.

I would appreciate any advice. Thanks in advance.
 

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Little Dipper, I play Horn. I don't know the Accent Horn and never heard of it. I'm assuming from your list, that these are all available locally?

I don't know Holton 376s. I know 378 and 379 and both are fine horns; practically the same as a Farkas model; a little stuffy in the lower register. I played a Holton 378 when I returned to Horn playing about two years ago.

I really like Conn 6Ds. They're easier to control than their big brothers, the 8Ds. I think they're undersung.

I haven't played a Nirschl but the heritage of these horns is very strong and they should be good.

If these are available locally, then you should be able to play them all and make your decision.

A word about the Nirschl. It is a Geyer and the valve alignment is different from the other horns. Don't let that throw you, it's neither better or worse. FWIW, that is the same as on my Horn (a German-made Hans Hoyer). Also, I can't see from the photos, but it's possible that the valve mechanisms are levers and not string. Again, in this horn's case don't let that throw you. Many cheaper horns in the past did have that mechanical linkage, but some high-end horns (again, like mine) also have it, so if the Nirschl had is, as well as the in-line Geyer valve alignment, don't let anyone imply that these are signs of a cheaper eastern European Horn.

Before you buy any of these, I would check with the internet site wwbw-dot-com and compare prices to make sure that you are getting fair pricing.

Also, in your price range, I would keep my eyes open for a used Reynolds Contempora, which is also a sleeper and a big bang-for-the-buck. Years ago, I actually chose one of these over the vaunted Conn 8D. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Gary, thank you for your nice and informative reply. You are correct - the Holton is a 378, not a 376 (typo by me). The only brands I can play locally are Conn, Accent, Yamaha, and Jupiter. I can get practically any brand, though, on the internet and some sites will give a 30-day trial period. I'd rather not do that, though.

You didn't mention Jupiter and Yamaha. Honestly, the Yamaha 567 gets very good reviews and I can get one locally at a good price. Do you have any knowledge of the Yamaha 567 or the Jupiter horn?

Thanks again.

LD
 

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Gary, thank you for your nice and informative reply. You are correct - the Holton is a 378, not a 376 (typo by me). The only brands I can play locally are Conn, Accent, Yamaha, and Jupiter. I can get practically any brand, though, on the internet and some sites will give a 30-day trial period. I'd rather not do that, though.

You didn't mention Jupiter and Yamaha. Honestly, the Yamaha 567 gets very good reviews and I can get one locally at a good price. Do you have any knowledge of the Yamaha 567 or the Jupiter horn?

Thanks again.

LD
Jupiter makes good instruments, but I would not take one over the others you have mentioned above.

The Yamaha is an excellent Horn.

One that you have not mentioned that is in that price group, and that I would also include, is the Czech made Cerveny CHR 881.

A word about finishes. Generally speaking, Kruspe horns (three valves in a row seen from above) have larger throats which give them darker core sounds and to balance that out, they are generally made of Nickel Silver, which is a bit brighter than brass. Conversely, Geyer horns (four valves in a row seen from above) have smaller throats and are a bit brighter, so they are made of brass, which is a bit darker.

Why am I saying this? Because unless you have a specific preference, it is advisable to avoid getting a Geyer in Nickel Silver or a Kruspe in brass.

- note to SOTW sax players: as you know, there have been tons of threads on whether or not the material affects the instrument's core sound. Please don't start another one here. Like it or not, what I have described above ~is~ the process many Horn makers use when making their instruments. Thanks.
 
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