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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
after reading the article http://saxophonistisches.de/die-saxophonistische-mega-blattschraube/ I was inspired to try some DIY.

I thought the pressure plate is actually unnecessary. I had some Chinese ligature debris of not functional Rovner-Type ligatures, so I though, doesn't cost much, just a bit of work. I think the making is pretty self-expanatory. The nylon monofile is a classical guitar G-string (ask your guitar buddy, he may have some, it's a fantastic material). One could experiment with the angle of the holes, but it's basically working very well as it is. The holes aren't perfect because I don't have a drill stand; it was free-hand drilling. Started with 1mm drill and then 2 mm.

The two rubber rings on the central screw take cate of the screw never touching the MP and thus never scratching it.

All I can say is, that it works much better than any other ligature I have ever used (though I didn't use all the esoteric mega$ ligatures), but I know Rovners (dark and light) as well as the traditional two screw ligatures of different makings.

It blows freer than any of them, with more higher harmonics present, the reed is easy to control and there is no muffiness to it... Costs: 5$. Making time 30min.

Here is what I came up with:

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Ooooh, I love a good DIY saxophone project. Very cool! I think I have an old Rovner-style ligature laying around I can cannibalize for a project like this. Thanks for posting!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I would consider using a shrink tubing of appropriate diameter and shrink it so that it sits properly on the string. Maybe it will increase the friction against the mouthpiece, so that the ligature stays put... otherwise it is easy to move it against the mouthpiece. Not bad, but one has to be careful (as with many other ligatures, too). It also could be useful to use a rectified g-string instead, because the surface is matted and has also more friction.
 

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I like the O-rings to hold the bars and screw away from the barrel.

Have you considered knotting the string only on the side of the adjusting knob? Then the loops would be self-equalizing to accommodate variations in barrel taper, and make the lengths of the individual loops less critical. You might chamfer the holes on the non-knotted side to encourage free movement of the loop.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I like the O-rings to hold the bars and screw away from the barrel.

Have you considered knotting the string only on the side of the adjusting knob? Then the loops would be self-equalizing to accommodate variations in barrel taper, and make the lengths of the individual loops less critical. You might chamfer the holes on the non-knotted side to encourage free movement of the loop.
I'm not sure if understand your proposal. Do you mean using the sharp angle to the bars to stop the string from sliding?
 

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I'm not sure if understand your proposal. Do you mean using the sharp angle to the bars to stop the string from sliding?
No, just the opposite. Have only one continuous loop that has only two knots. Chamfer the holes on the sides without a knot to encourage the loop to equalize tension along its length.
 

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I think you're on to something here. After you iron out the bugs & finalize the design, you can charge $150 per unit -- more for the gold-plated version that corrects intonation & adds purity to tone.
 

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Hi
I work in the marine industry and sailboats use a mulitude of small extremly strong lines of all types slippery, nonslip etc and strenghts check West Marine online catalog you can buy a foot or a mile.
Islander
 
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