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Discussion Starter #1
I have a buddy from out of town that says he would like to sell a 10M. From his description, serial number etc it is probably a 1948. He is not a sax player, but he said that someone played it and it plays great. He had a tech put in a lot of new pads. It might be a relaq but if so, he said the engraving is real sharp, so it could be a well done relacq. He is offering it for $700.
Of course, I will get a chance to play it before I buy it and will know a whole bunch more after I do that. I am just trying to see how soon I should make the 100 mile drive to check it out. How does the deal sound to you. I would especially LOVE to hear from anybody who has a non RTH 10M.



P.S. Before anybody mentions using the search function, I just want to let you know that I have already read this thread: http://forum.saxontheweb.net/showthread.php?101939-Conn-10-m-Rolled-tone-holes-or-not

I also read Stephen Howard's article.
 

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My experience with the later 10Ms is that sometimes the tuning can be a little quirky (each horn is going to be different), but they are a raucous as any 10m. For 700 you cant go wrong. I have many with RTH (3 right now), but only one without. They tend to sell for a little less money, but as far as bang for your buck, you cant beat them. I would get it..and if you need it worked on you still have breathing room.
 

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Not saying I'm anywhere near a position to evaluate horns compared to most on here, but I have a NRTH '48 with a non original neck (no idea where the neck came from but heh, I bought the horn for $300 in a college campus parking lot) and in reality the horn has a monster sound. It goes a bit flat in the palm keys but it's still well within controllable. My tech (who's also a professional alto player) keeps joking that he's gonna steal it. For $700, if it plays, it sounds like a steal. Just be aware of the quirky ergos, the spatula is shall we say less than ideal, and at least for me, the thumb hook does cause me pain on longer shows or gigs, it's just in the wrong place but I can't figure out where it ought to go.
 

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I'd jump on it too. I especially favor the first non RTH 10M's as far as for tone AND non RTH hassle convenience. It could be original lacquer, artist series have really light engraving with the lines gravers, if relacquered it does lose most of the engraving because Conn's metal is really soft. It sounds like a killer deal even if it needs work
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, I am not too worried about the ergos as my main tenor is a '28 Chu. I can hardly wait to try it out. It may become my backup. (Or the Chu might)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well I can't go this weekend. Maybe next weekend I will get to try it out. Hoping it is a great companion to my Chu.
 

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It's a great price. ANY 10M for 7 bill$ is a great price, even a late 60's one.

I don't feel there's many degrees of separation between a '69 and a '37...underslung, overslung, double socket, standard socket, Naked Lady, Floral Engraving, RTH, non-RTH, Forked Eb yay and nay, G#trill yay and nay.......you name it. I have had a bunch of all of 'em thru here, and have yet to play a dog. They were built great, and they all sounded great. Classic. The body design changed very little in those 30 years....

I think the RTH thing definitely has a higher market value, but I do not feel it effects sound/performance at all. Like wings on an old Caddy...cool, but you don't need 'em.
 

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It's a great price. ANY 10M for 7 bill$ is a great price, even a late 60's one.

I don't feel there's many degrees of separation between a '69 and a '37...underslung, overslung, double socket, standard socket, Naked Lady, Floral Engraving, RTH, non-RTH, Forked Eb yay and nay, G#trill yay and nay.......you name it. I have had a bunch of all of 'em thru here, and have yet to play a dog. They were built great, and they all sounded great. Classic. The body design changed very little in those 30 years....

I think the RTH thing definitely has a higher market value, but I do not feel it effects sound/performance at all. Like wings on an old Caddy...cool, but you don't need 'em.

I agree as far s sound....I have said there is no such thing as a bad chu alto, and the same goes for 10ms, but I have had a couple that had tuning quirks with small chamber high baffle pieces, but even those had that amazing sound. You can find nice Selmers too, but if you line up 10 10ms and 10 Selmer VIs, you will find the Conns are way more consistent as far as robust-ness (not sure if thats a word) of sound...Get it man....better yet let me get it LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
For me, market value has almost always taken second place to playing value. I say almost because I almost sold my Chu to help finance a Mark VI. Not slamming the Selmer, it was a fantastic horn, but whenever I go back to the Chu, I always feel like I am back where I belong. So I am selling the Selmer and keeping the Conn. This 10M, when I finally get to try it, should be a great addition.
 

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10M keywork is much more easily dealt with than chu keywork. I have had a few chu and transitional tenors, and my left hand would hurt after playing because the keys are so far apart on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Today is the day!! Finally going to get to try it!! News at 11.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, I got to play it a little. Not enough time to really try different setups and run it through the paces, but initial reaction is great. It needs work: pads, regulation etc... but I could get down to Bb without much trouble. A little stuffy on low D but I suspect some minor leaks. Very comfortable to play and it seems a bit tamer than my Chu, but I can push it and it can still scream when needed. As I was told to expect, the 10M is a bit more refined and a little less spread.

I am pretty sure it is a relaq as there is the slightest fading on the engraving, but not really bad. Whoever did the relaquer was pretty darn good. (as I re look at jcaino's post, it may be original.) Lacqer is in the 90+% condition and it is a really pretty horn. I am lining up to get it worked on, and the tech is giving me the "brother in law" price, but I will have to wait until about mid May for him to get to it. I will fool around with combinations to determine the best one until then and will post another report when I get it back from the tech.

I am debating between plastic dome resos or flat metal and am open to suggestions.
 

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I use musicmedic pads with smooth dome resos....really sound great for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I finally got to spend some more time trying it out. Very nice playing horn despite the needed work. One thing I noticed was it seemed to be playing a little sharp. (not tested with a strobe, just playing along with some bacground tracks) Surprisingly, the MP that gave me the least issues with this was a Selmer vintage style. I assumed the smaller chamber would cause problems. I suspect the action may be a little high, so I am reserving judgement until after the repad/regulation. I will mention it to the tech. With all the good things I have heard about 10Ms, I would be surprised if this really remains an issue.

Lots of power in this horn; especially with my Excalibur 7EL. It doesn't seem to like high baffle pieces, but really, neither do I. I think I am going to end up with a winner here.
 

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If there are intonation problems it's due to the keyheights as currently set. Have your tech pay some attention to those, also....
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If there are intonation problems it's due to the keyheights as currently set. Have your tech pay some attention to those, also....
That also is what I suspected. I am waiting for him to get it so I can have him bring it up to full potential. Rods are nice and tight so it doesn't look like it will need any swedging. Not sure about the tone holes, but with non rth, they can be leveled if needed. Once this baby is in shape, I will have my '28 Chu and this. My Mark VI is gone and I am not looking back.
 
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