[RREXX]

As much as I really like my 7* Link, it doesn’t really fit every scenario I want to play in.

I understand 10ms are very picky with their mouthpieces, so I figured I’d ask you guys what mouthpieces usually go well with the 10m as to avoid buying one that won’t get along with the horn. (I heard the Jody Jazz DV was a notoriously really bad combo)

I’m looking for something kinda bright, I’ve been looking at bergs lately maybe a 105/1, I just need something that will suit some more spirited playing like rock etc...

Budget isn’t a huge issue just as long as it’s not a crazy price, Theo wanna is a bit out of my range.

 

[Mike T]

You're right about that Jody Jazz 'piece - it didn't work for me either - the chamber is too small, I believe.

First, ebonite or hard rubber mouthpieces:

I usually use a Phil-Tone HR Eclipse 8* on my 1937 10M, but if if I really need an in-your-face sound, I get out my SaxQuest Hoss.

On my 1949 10M I prefer a 10Mfan HR Robusto 8*; if I want even more heft I get out my Robusto 12*.

In metal mouthpieces, I have an excellent Early Babbit Link 8* . In Berg Larsen pieces I have a 110/2 SMS and for a paint-peeler there's a Berg Larsen 115/0 SMS. The trouble with Bergs is that although they can be brilliant mouthpieces, you can spend an awful lot of time and money looking for one that really suits you.

 

[Jazz House]

I've had really mixed results with mouthpieces on my 10m. Generally, I go for a large chamber, but certain small chamber designs have worked really well in the past. Any link-style piece will usually work (V16L, Select Jazz, an actual Link etc..). However, I didn't have the greatest results with the Jody Jazz HR*.

A surprising match for my 10m was a Francois Louis SP chamber, which has a big baffle and an unusual squeeze throat design. My usual mouthpiece is my Spencer, which has a big chamber like a link Tonemaster and a baffle that's almost as high as a Guardala. One thing I'll add about my Francois Louis is that it is very long, so I suspect that helps make up for the small chamber.

It might help you to check the key heights on your horn. A good 10m is so vibrant that it doesn't really need very open keys to really scream. Setting them lower can help tame the general sharpness a bit.

 

[Rumbabajabba]

I used a Dukoff M6 with one for a while. It was bright but it cut through and actually sounded nice. I think a Berg would do nicely too.

 

[mijderf]

I have not noticed mouthpiece pickiness with my 10M. A couple of weeks ago I tried a JJ DV CHI and it played nicely (but not bright). I also tried a friends JJ Jet (Not super jet) and found it very bright, and easy to play. Other bright mouthpieces that have worked well for me on my 10M are a Dukoff D, a Saxquest Hoss, and a Berg 95 0 M.
Good luck in your search.

 

[because]

I use a HR Meyer 7 for small room gigs & Dukoff D6 for big band & anything that brings lots of amplifiers

 

[10mfan]

Come check out my website.
www.10mfan.com

Lots of great videos and audios. My Generation ll pieces sound beautiful on 10M's.
I am a serious 10M fan.

Based on what you are looking for, my Showtime or Chameleon models would do the job very well, if you are ok with hard rubber.
There are lots of pieces out there that will work well for you so enjoy your journey and I hope you find what you're looking for.

 

[Grumps]

I played an RPC 125 rollover on mine when I had it.

 

[turf3]

I've had good success with (from small chamber to large)

Brilhart Ebolin
Meyer 8 (my main piece for over 40 years)
Dukoff D7 (high baffle but large chamber)
Link HR.

I don't find the 10M particularly sensitive to mouthpiece but I have a Woodwind Co. metal with small round chamber (distinctly smaller than the cork bore), and it did not perform well - I can't remember details because that was way back in the late 70s that I used it for a short time.

 

[jacco]

Older Vandoren T77 metal

 

[JL]

You might try the 10mfan Chameleon on that horn. Should 'pair' really well with a 10m Conn! And you'd be able to go from a warm ballad to blowing off the roof in 3 seconds. Same with the 10mfan Black Widow if you can find one.

 

[jazzznbluezzz]

Most medium large chambers work well on a 10M. Even a lot of smaller chamber with baffle give great results.
If you want to go bright I second the Dukoff D and Bergs with 1 or 0 chambers. Even the 2 chamber Bergs with step-baffle can
get fairly bright. As a cheaper Dukoff alternative you could try a Borb Oliver piece. He makes D chamber copies and are all over Ebay.
Also Brilharts but that is bit of a search to find the right one.

If you just don't want to spend too much when trying different choices you could also consider the Metaltes. They work great
on a 10M and have all the power and brightness you want.

 

[Grumps]

A small chambered mouthpiece is gonna sit way off on the end of the cork to play in tune for many 10M players. Problems experienced by players with the mouthpiece pulled out so far can be instability in the low end; particularly around low D to C. Not to say that it can't work, as we all blow differently.

 

[turf3]

Just to be clear: in my taxonomy a Dukoff D is a medium-large chamber piece with a high baffle (the chamber diameter is the same as the cork bore diameter, right up to the high baffle). I consider "large" to be bigger than the cork bore (Link HR), "medium-large" to be equal (Dukoff, Meyer med. chbr.), "medium" is a little smaller (often by squeezing in the sides (Brilhart, Selmer Soloist)) and "small" is notably smaller (Vandoren small chambers, Larry Teal Selmer, and my old Woodwind Co. metal).

Small chamber pieces will have to be pulled out to play "in tune" - I put "in tune" in inverted commas because putting too-small a chamber on a 10M and pulling way out will make the scale all wonky - and if your specimen has the low D warble tendency, it'll make it much worse. Personally I wouldn't go any smaller than a Brilhart Ebolin/Tonalin and if you play tight and sharp, even that might tune too high for you.

I think the real deal on a Conn 10M is probably a Link metal or HR.

 

[Sigmund451]

Phil-tone Impulse
Basically a well crafted berg style piece

 

[Frank D]

I played two Guardala Studios, handmade and LT on my late model (49-ish) 10M without any problems. I did not like the feel of a STM 7*.

 

[radiopicture]

With my 30M I like a Berg 105 / 1 offset M.

 

[turf3]

Interesting that so many have had success with Bergs on Conns. Personally I've never been able to get on with Bergs (but it's been a lot of years).

 

[Mike T]

Phil-tone Impulse
Basically a well crafted berg style piece

I second that ! I have one of these, but I didn't think to mention it in my earlier post simply because I use it on my Mark VI tenor. I've just given it a run on the 1937 10M to check it out: it plays very easily, with fast response and a big Berg sound. It's also perfectly in tune on the 10M. Well worth it !

 

[sax.hobby]

Not quite 10M, but I love using Sakshama Z with my 16M. My other mouthpieces that work with it are Ambika 3, vintage (denim) Berg SS 110/2/M, and Robusto II, but I personally much prefer Sakshama Z on the 16M.