Tru-Tone Bari's ?

[coufplayer]

Any opinion of these? How do they play? sound? intonation? ergonomics? etc.
Thanks

[MusicMedic]

True Tones have the most 'vintage sound' of all the bari's that I have played. They pay with huge round sound, full tone. I prefer the True Tone Bari to most of the other Buescher Baritones. And the lower tones...ahhh

If I did not care for my Conn so much, I might switch to a TT Bari.

I do think that ergonomics can be a problem. The pearl G# and the placement of the low Bb key need attention. I am working on a Gold PLated TT now that I am in the process of changing the low Bb key to an Aristocrat style. It's not done but it's functional. I find this to be a necessary alteration. I will also put a Bar-style G# on it as that pearl is just not that comfortable.

A front F might also be a welcome addition.

Intonation on the TT Bari's is just fine.

[bari_sax_diva]

Oooo... I had one of these. The sound was--put simply--spectacular. Warm, rich... everything I ever wanted in a bari.

Unfortunately, the ergonomics were impossible for the kind of playing I do. I put in a lot of section time, and the left-hand group was far too heavy for my poor little pinkies--a romp through "Peanut Vendor" would leave me sore for days. It was an old horn that had been through a lot, but multiple trips to the best tech I know weren't able to make that set-up liveable.

I ended up buying a Yamaha 62 that I enjoy playing a great deal, but for reasons of space (I was in the middle of a house remodel at the time) I had to sell the Buescher. Needless to say, when I get to play bari in a small group I miss that sound.

Hope this helps...
-Leanne

[michaelbaird]

I have gimped out my buescher 400 with palm key risers. I also fabricated risers for the G# and F# keys. It has helped make it more ergonomic and took away my reasons for being disappointed with the feel of the horn. I'm sure I'll get a trutone in the future. I have a trutone c-melody and a soprano and love the action and sound. Snap in pads are cool too!

[Bar-Ron]

Same opinions. Bueschers big warm round sound is even "allowed" by my wife. Ergonomics are great for small hands but take left hand pinky power for those used to modern horns. Intonation varies with mouthpieces. Be selective and experiment. My 1930ish nickel plated Buescher booms big and powerful with its vintage Brilhard #3.
Sounds like crap with a Runyon custom or even a Morgan classic.

[Dave dix]

Wonderful baritones with v/good intonation,i have had mine for 7-8 years and have never thought about replacing it and if i did what with? I have nothing but praise for them
I use a Lawton 8B and it works fine,i also have a Dukoff D7 which is a bit darker
Dave

[Bar-Ron]

I have to correct that Morgan statement. I changed over to a new #4 Hemke reed and it sounds great again. Worn out Hemke's sound like garbage then. Thats my statement and I'm sticking to it.

[soreliprick]

Yeah! True Tone Nickelplate from '28. All dented up with frozen rods, had the pigtail and bell taken off to deal with the dents, and the rods were easier to deal with that way. A couple of keyguards fabricated and a low C# post replaced. But it has all its snaps, only cost $400 and was in town so no shipping, only $175 for all the repairs. Did the repad, corking and regulating myself. Came with a K6 Woodwind Co. NY fat mouthpiece with the lig and chrome cover. Plays so great that I spend more time on it than The Martin Bari from '58 which barely has any dents and is equally powerful. No, I ain't selling the Martin, or my ugly '37 Searchlight. I also found a Guy Hawkins metal 8 that plays well on the True Tone best.

[paulwl]

You sure that's nickel plate? Buescher used to "not recommend it" in the T-T era. Satin silver more likely. Or a redo...

[soreliprick]

My techs down at 464-TUBA say its nickel, and its not satin since its very shiny. I'm sure its not silver since it wasn't tarnished, I didn't even have to polish it around the posts when apart, just to get rid of oil residue. Could it be chrome plating? Around the neck some of it is peeling off like on a car bumper, revealing more plating underneath. Does nickel, or even more insanely chrome, need a silver undercoat like gold?

[Bar-Ron]

My Buescher is shiny nickel also with a Gold wash bell interior.
I believe nickel plate is usually over the brass because when they nickel plate iron they brass plate under the nickel. That is with stoves not saxes.
I think the nickel takes a little of the warmth out of the Buescher but adds projection. Doesn't seem to effect the stove any.
I have never seen nickel peel even on my 1926 "T" radiator shell. I think you will find nickel is slightly yellowy or warmer looking than chrome if you can compare it to something. Can't imagine anyone actually chroming a horn though. It is so brittle and would certainly effect the horn in a negative way I think.

[soreliprick]

Well, there's no gold wash bell here. The areas that have peeled show a slightly yellower color. There are also areas, even around some of the upper posts, that are 'rippled' - not cracked - but not in contact with the tube itself.
Like I said, it was completely taken apart for the main tube dents and pigtail.
And the new strapring, 2 new posts, and 2 new keyguards are all bare brass, but the big dents in the back of the tube are all gone and nothing bad happened to the finish because of being dedented. I can definitely tell that all the snaps are there and really do love the sound, my 2 Martins have their own darker flavour, but this one can really rock out. I'm tempted to put in some metal domed resos just so they can keep up.

[Dave dix]

Rub a bit of the plate with a silver cleaner and if it shows black on the cloth its silverplate,if no black it will be nickel but i didnt think buescher used nickelplate.You live and learn
Dave

[soreliprick]

Well, on the areas where some peeling has taken place it rubs black on the cloth, and the same on the other areas. I know goldleaf is a sheet like tinfoil but imagine the plating process to be electrolytic and am having a hard time understanding whats going on here. Could be a replate of silver over silver but I can actually peel off little pieces of what seems to be a hard brittle foil.
Maybe I should bring this up in the 'Finishes, etc' arena for more discussion.

[Dave dix]

If it rub off black it is silver no question!Nickel doesnt react the same also all goldleaf horns are silverplated first
Dave

[Bar-Ron]

Nickel will still slightly blacken a polishing rag as I polish my 1905 glenwood and it blackens the rag. You are right though in that silver gives up much more blackening to the rag and much easier too.
Chrome gives up nothing when polished.
Maybe it was re- nickeled and didn't take well in some spots.
Nickel has some film thickness to it so it could peel.
If it plays well who cares.
let the historians argue over the finish and who did it.
Instead enjoy that fine Buescher sound. :D

[soreliprick]

Chrome gives up nothing when polished.
Maybe it was re- nickeled and didn't take well in some spots.
Nickel has some film thickness to it so it could peel.
If it plays well who cares.
let the historians argue over the finish and who did it.
Instead enjoy that fine Buescher sound. :D
Sorry, I was enjoying that fine Buescher sound and didn't hear you.

[soreliprick]

But I do believe that I can forgo that trip to the metalurgist{sp}with my little chip. Thank you all for assisting me in my quest for canolaedge.

[Paul Coats]

I have a 400 bari with the satin silver/gold wash bell/ribbon keyguard trim. And the tone is huge. Intonation is everything I could want in a bari. The sound is smooth, the pitch is easy to bend. I use a Runyon Custom 8 with Fibracell Med Soft reeds on mine, and carry it in a Protec coffin. I could spend a lot of money and not get any better instrument.

I have never missed having low A.

[Bar-Ron]

I agree with that. I have a new low a bari and a Martin. But I always come back to the Buescher and it is in the worste condition of the three but there is something about it's sound that is big and colorful that the others lack.
My money will definately go to repairs and beautification on that old girl before I spend anything on either other horn.
Love that Buescher sound.

[soreliprick]

I've never heard a sax given a feminine appelation before....well, I won't even go there, but that beautification part is something I don't cotton to.
Just like I wouldn't go in for cosmetic surgery, I prefer to let the scars show.
I am thinking of using my miniplating kit to silver the new brass post and the two replaced keyguards. I'll go that far for fashion.
I wish I could get mine to subtone down past C# - only 3 more notes to go....with the Handcraft Committee and the Committee I've never had that problem. Of course I never repadded either of those..but I may have to, stick in some metal domes just to keep up with the True Tone snaps

[Pinnman]

Some confirmation of Buescher's position on nickle plating. The Buescher catalogue dated 3rd January 1923 states:

"We have discontinued listing True-Tone Saxophons with nickel-plated finish, because of such finish not being in keeping with True-Tone instruments otherwise. We will furnish the nickel plate, however, if desired."

[Pinnman]

..... The catalogue also shows the baris as going up to Eb. When, if at all, was the high F key added?

[Dave dix]

My one was made in 1928 and it is keyed to high F
Dave

[abadcliche]

mine was made in 1924 (serial number 173xxx) and has the high F.

[soreliprick]

Ahh, but no Front F. Not that it makes altissimo impossible. I got a tip about taking off the low C or Eb key to allow a leak light into the main tube to chech for leaks, found a couple of crescents of light showing, did a bit of fluffing and minor key bending, and now have a very responsive, LOUD baritone sax. I now prefer it to my Martins for tone and volume, the Martin pair winning out in easier keywork only. I guess its time to replace the rivet only pads on the Martins with some resos to keep up with the snaps.