Mystery Key

[BaruDude]

i found a strange key on my c-mel and i cant find any keys to open it any ideas?


http://onfinite.com/libraries/9371/278696//TN_72326241050109155706.jpg

http://onfinite.com/libraries/9371/278696//TN_399070150050109155707.jpg

http://onfinite.com/libraries/278699/c42.jpg

[Carl H.]

Looks like a forked Eb, played by closing LH 123 RH 1 3 , unless it has been sprung shut.

[BaruDude]

eh?

[Carl H.]

Many shops close that key so that never opens, as it is difficult to setup properly. To see if it is working, finger a low D and lift your middle finger from the right hand.

[BaruDude]

its springed shut... is it a good idewa to reverse this process?

[Carl H.]

It is nice to have more options, but for most playing it is as useless as the right hand G# trill key. If you can reverse the spring AND then put it back, go ahead and give it a try.

[BaruDude]

thx i tried and it was not set up so i re shut it , and does any1 have a idea y my c-mel does not like to play low d ?

[bariman]

what???

[BaruDude]

well i have to really toung slap it when its the first note i play

[bariman]

Try some nice long tones, and try to increase air speed to get the note out better. Take another look at your embrochure too, you could be slacking there.

Bariman

[cujo]

This key is not hard to setup, with proper materials used.
I use fairly thick teflon silencer that has been slightly sanded on the glue side for better adhesion.
I usually need to use 2 or three layers of this silencer for proper hieght if metal cannot be bent any further.
I dont like doubling silencer material but one piece of really thick cork will get crushed, key metal slides and is at an angle destroying the cork.

[tbone]

This key is not hard to setup, with proper materials used.
I use fairly thick teflon silencer that has been slightly sanded on the glue side for better adhesion.
I usually need to use 2 or three layers of this silencer for proper hieght if metal cannot be bent any further.
I dont like doubling silencer material but one piece of really thick cork will get crushed, key metal slides and is at an angle destroying the cork.

Cujo, Try glueing on a layer of automotive gasket material to build it up and then the teflon on top of it. The composite gasket is quite hard and resists crushing. Also adhesives adhere to it quite well. ;)

[bruce bailey]

To answer the original question, the key is to help go from low Eb to C. On the standard horn of today, you need to roll over from one pinky key to another and this awkward key helps as you can finger low C and just lift the middle finger (E) and go back and forth. I always reverse spring the things as they tend to be more trouble than they are worth. If the key is in working order, it is not a great habit to use it as when you double a horn that does not have it, you need to remember..... My Mark VI has this key so it was offered at least into the 1960s but for the most part it disappeared from saxes in the early 30s.

[cas01]

If you restore the original sprinigng (even if you never use fork Eb) you will get better action on the E key (rh 2nd finger)

[bruce bailey]

After reverse springing, I put a little contact cement under the E pearl felt and stick it to the E cup. That way there is no lost motion and it can easily be removed and a new felt installed.