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Sax on the Web Forum / Conn Saxophones / 6M VIII Opinons

lee
User ID: 1467524 Jan 12th 7:26 PM
I have the oppourtunity to purchase a serial number 307xxx 6M VIII ladyface Alto. It has the usual rolled tone holes, underslung octave, double socket, microtuner neck. It's dent and ding free. I won't get to play it first hand so I'm asking opinions of how these horns perform. As always thanks for the input.
lee

lee
User ID: 1467524 Jan 14th 7:56 AM
Well I made a decision and bought the horn, I recon I'll find out the details when it arrives. Thanks anyway.

paulwl
User ID: 1891784 Jan 14th 10:43 AM
You ought to dig it. The 6MVIII is excellent in intonation and handling and absolutely phenomenal in power and quality of tone. It has a richness and dimension that make it really rewarding to play.

lee
User ID: 1467524 Jan 14th 10:59 AM
Thanks Paul, you answered my biggest concern, intonation. Are these horns as mouthpiece fussy as the Wonders and New Wonders? If so please feel free to recommend a mpc which will offer a medium to dark tone. Thanks
Lee

Toby
User ID: 9572103 Jan 14th 11:27 AM
If you like metal, I use a Tone Master 5* link on mine.

If you like HR, I kinda liked the SR Tech piece but I didn't buy it.

It really is a great horn. It's my horn of choice for travelling.

paulwl
User ID: 1891784 Jan 14th 6:48 PM
(lee)>> Are these horns as mouthpiece fussy as the Wonders and New Wonders? <<

Nowhere near. You should have no trouble finding a good tuning piece.

lee
User ID: 7615523 Jan 25th 4:23 PM
Well just to give this thread closure. I received the horn and it's pretty amazing. It takes no effort to lift the roof, lots of power. The tone is medium to dark, as I hoped. It has older pads with huge metal resonators, they seal fine, they are probably one of the reasons this horn roars. The action is smooth and light. It did get a relacq somewhere long, long ago, if it did anything but take away some of it's collectability I can't tell. Anyway I'll start the search for the ultimate mpc. Thanks for the advice.

Barbara
User ID: 1509104 Jan 25th 6:21 PM
Lee --
Glad you like the horn.

I got a 306xxx 6M viii about the same time you got yours. I wanted it as a back-up for my Selmer Serie III, but I liked it so much that now the III is the back-up. Only 2 things I don't like about the Conn. One, the LH thumb rest is uncomfortable; plus I can crack open the octave vent by accident if I let my thumb stray. Two, my low C# key is stiffer than the others; almost too stiff for me (I have small hands, so I lose leverage). Other than that I love the horn -- especially its tone: big & full. Easy blowing, very responsive & flexible, wonderful rich low notes. I never sounded this good before.

Like you, I'm searching for the perfect mpc. So far I've played it with the only 3 mpc's I have: Meyer 5M, Meyer 6M & SRtech Legend. It seems to like the Legend best -- bigger sound & better intonation (which, incidentally, is as good if not better than my III's intonation).

lee
User ID: 7615523 Jan 25th 7:08 PM
So Barbara, do the Meyer's give it a darker sound? I am looking for an early Babbit Meyer 5M.
Does your octave key have those sharp little points? My C# key is easy enough for me but I'm a fairly large guy, with big hands. The thumb rest hasn't been a problem. btw do you know anyone looking for a nice 1990 Model Series II? <g>
lee

Bill
User ID: 8959213 Jan 25th 7:28 PM
Barbara-
With regard to C#; You probably have a forked G# left pinky table. That means any key on the left pinky table will depress G#. If you look carefully you will see the fork on the back of the C# key. Some players cut this fork off to ease the pressure of the C# key. You can test this by depressing the G# key and then depressing the C# key. I'm guessing you will find the C# key is very easy to accuate.

Barbara
User ID: 1509104 Jan 26th 10:33 AM
Lee, the Meyers (which are not vintage pieces) do seem a little darker. I like a dark sound too. But my 6M's intonation is not as good with them as it is with the Legend. I seem to remember that when I tested them with the tuner a few days they made the A2 go sharp, although I was able to bring it into tune easily enough. The Legend seems to give the horn a freer sound, but still with color. Also, the Legend is easier for me to play on the Conn (about the same on my Selmer III).

The original Conn Steelay mpc came with the horn. I tried for a few minutes, then put it away. Don't want to try it too much again until I feel comfortable with horn.

Yes, my octave key has those sharp little points. The left one gets in my way since I tend to rest my thumb on it when not using the octave key. This causes the octave vent to open a smidgen, like a big leak. I'm trying to train myself not to do that. I'm a slow learner though.

Bill, thanks for the tip about the forked G# key. Yes, mine is forked the way you described. And, as you suggested, I pressed the C# key while the G# key was depressed. What a difference! The stiffness is gone! I wonder if cutting off the fork would decrease the resale value of my horn.

lee
User ID: 9697893 Jan 26th 10:55 AM
Barbara, thanks for the info. It's the same left side point which gets me as well, funny. I was checking out the fork under the rh table, like you said a world of difference. I'm pretty sure removing it would be cause for alarm to a collector, but I don't think it matter much to a player, really hard to say.

Bill
User ID: 8959213 Jan 26th 11:30 AM
Barbara-
On my 10M tenor I was able to bend the fork towards the body of the sax so that it was located behind the G# key. To do this you will need to take out the top screw on the C# rod [move it out from the G# key] and then bend the fork with plyers. On the tenor there is plenty of room for the G# to operate without touching the bent C# tab. You may have to increase the spring pressure on the C# key a little since the G# key use to put return pressure on this key as well. With the modification C# is the easiest key to operate on the sax! Nice thing is the modificaton can be returned to the original configuration in a second. Good luck....

Bill
User ID: 8959213 Jan 26th 11:32 AM
Barbara-
On my 10M tenor I was able to bend the fork towards the body of the sax so that it was located behind the G# key. To do this you will need to take out the top screw on the C# rod [move it out from the G# key] and then bend the fork with plyers. On the tenor there is plenty of room for the G# to operate without touching the bent C# tab. You may have to increase the spring pressure on the C# key a little since the G# key use to put return pressure on this key as well. With the modification C# is the easiest key to operate on the sax! Nice thing is the modificaton can be returned to the original configuration in a second. Good luck....

garyinla
User ID: 2219504 Jan 31st 2:15 PM
is the Conn 6M VIII model markedly better or different than a regular 6M of a few years before?
I am wondering since I dont own a 6M yet and I dont know how critical it is to get a VIII model one over any other one? Has anyone compared say a 1938 6M with a 1940 6M VIII (or whatever year the VIII neck came out), side by side, both in good repair, both with original lacqour?

morgan
User ID: 9690803 Feb 2nd 12:07 AM
Runyon Custom plays very nicely on a 6M

lee User ID: 1467524	Jan 12th 7:26 PM I have the oppourtunity to purchase a serial number 307xxx 6M VIII ladyface Alto. It has the usual rolled tone holes, underslung octave, double socket, microtuner neck. It's dent and ding free. I won't get to play it first hand so I'm asking opinions of how these horns perform. As always thanks for the input. lee
lee User ID: 1467524	Jan 14th 7:56 AM Well I made a decision and bought the horn, I recon I'll find out the details when it arrives. Thanks anyway.
paulwl User ID: 1891784	Jan 14th 10:43 AM You ought to dig it. The 6MVIII is excellent in intonation and handling and absolutely phenomenal in power and quality of tone. It has a richness and dimension that make it really rewarding to play.
lee User ID: 1467524	Jan 14th 10:59 AM Thanks Paul, you answered my biggest concern, intonation. Are these horns as mouthpiece fussy as the Wonders and New Wonders? If so please feel free to recommend a mpc which will offer a medium to dark tone. Thanks Lee
Toby User ID: 9572103	Jan 14th 11:27 AM If you like metal, I use a Tone Master 5* link on mine. If you like HR, I kinda liked the SR Tech piece but I didn't buy it. It really is a great horn. It's my horn of choice for travelling.
paulwl User ID: 1891784	Jan 14th 6:48 PM (lee)>> Are these horns as mouthpiece fussy as the Wonders and New Wonders? << Nowhere near. You should have no trouble finding a good tuning piece.
lee User ID: 7615523	Jan 25th 4:23 PM Well just to give this thread closure. I received the horn and it's pretty amazing. It takes no effort to lift the roof, lots of power. The tone is medium to dark, as I hoped. It has older pads with huge metal resonators, they seal fine, they are probably one of the reasons this horn roars. The action is smooth and light. It did get a relacq somewhere long, long ago, if it did anything but take away some of it's collectability I can't tell. Anyway I'll start the search for the ultimate mpc. Thanks for the advice.
Barbara User ID: 1509104	Jan 25th 6:21 PM Lee -- Glad you like the horn. I got a 306xxx 6M viii about the same time you got yours. I wanted it as a back-up for my Selmer Serie III, but I liked it so much that now the III is the back-up. Only 2 things I don't like about the Conn. One, the LH thumb rest is uncomfortable; plus I can crack open the octave vent by accident if I let my thumb stray. Two, my low C# key is stiffer than the others; almost too stiff for me (I have small hands, so I lose leverage). Other than that I love the horn -- especially its tone: big & full. Easy blowing, very responsive & flexible, wonderful rich low notes. I never sounded this good before. Like you, I'm searching for the perfect mpc. So far I've played it with the only 3 mpc's I have: Meyer 5M, Meyer 6M & SRtech Legend. It seems to like the Legend best -- bigger sound & better intonation (which, incidentally, is as good if not better than my III's intonation).
lee User ID: 7615523	Jan 25th 7:08 PM So Barbara, do the Meyer's give it a darker sound? I am looking for an early Babbit Meyer 5M. Does your octave key have those sharp little points? My C# key is easy enough for me but I'm a fairly large guy, with big hands. The thumb rest hasn't been a problem. btw do you know anyone looking for a nice 1990 Model Series II? <g> lee
Bill User ID: 8959213	Jan 25th 7:28 PM Barbara- With regard to C#; You probably have a forked G# left pinky table. That means any key on the left pinky table will depress G#. If you look carefully you will see the fork on the back of the C# key. Some players cut this fork off to ease the pressure of the C# key. You can test this by depressing the G# key and then depressing the C# key. I'm guessing you will find the C# key is very easy to accuate.
Barbara User ID: 1509104	Jan 26th 10:33 AM Lee, the Meyers (which are not vintage pieces) do seem a little darker. I like a dark sound too. But my 6M's intonation is not as good with them as it is with the Legend. I seem to remember that when I tested them with the tuner a few days they made the A2 go sharp, although I was able to bring it into tune easily enough. The Legend seems to give the horn a freer sound, but still with color. Also, the Legend is easier for me to play on the Conn (about the same on my Selmer III). The original Conn Steelay mpc came with the horn. I tried for a few minutes, then put it away. Don't want to try it too much again until I feel comfortable with horn. Yes, my octave key has those sharp little points. The left one gets in my way since I tend to rest my thumb on it when not using the octave key. This causes the octave vent to open a smidgen, like a big leak. I'm trying to train myself not to do that. I'm a slow learner though. Bill, thanks for the tip about the forked G# key. Yes, mine is forked the way you described. And, as you suggested, I pressed the C# key while the G# key was depressed. What a difference! The stiffness is gone! I wonder if cutting off the fork would decrease the resale value of my horn.
lee User ID: 9697893	Jan 26th 10:55 AM Barbara, thanks for the info. It's the same left side point which gets me as well, funny. I was checking out the fork under the rh table, like you said a world of difference. I'm pretty sure removing it would be cause for alarm to a collector, but I don't think it matter much to a player, really hard to say.
Bill User ID: 8959213	Jan 26th 11:30 AM Barbara- On my 10M tenor I was able to bend the fork towards the body of the sax so that it was located behind the G# key. To do this you will need to take out the top screw on the C# rod [move it out from the G# key] and then bend the fork with plyers. On the tenor there is plenty of room for the G# to operate without touching the bent C# tab. You may have to increase the spring pressure on the C# key a little since the G# key use to put return pressure on this key as well. With the modification C# is the easiest key to operate on the sax! Nice thing is the modificaton can be returned to the original configuration in a second. Good luck....
Bill User ID: 8959213	Jan 26th 11:32 AM Barbara- On my 10M tenor I was able to bend the fork towards the body of the sax so that it was located behind the G# key. To do this you will need to take out the top screw on the C# rod [move it out from the G# key] and then bend the fork with plyers. On the tenor there is plenty of room for the G# to operate without touching the bent C# tab. You may have to increase the spring pressure on the C# key a little since the G# key use to put return pressure on this key as well. With the modification C# is the easiest key to operate on the sax! Nice thing is the modificaton can be returned to the original configuration in a second. Good luck....
garyinla User ID: 2219504	Jan 31st 2:15 PM is the Conn 6M VIII model markedly better or different than a regular 6M of a few years before? I am wondering since I dont own a 6M yet and I dont know how critical it is to get a VIII model one over any other one? Has anyone compared say a 1938 6M with a 1940 6M VIII (or whatever year the VIII neck came out), side by side, both in good repair, both with original lacqour?
morgan User ID: 9690803	Feb 2nd 12:07 AM Runyon Custom plays very nicely on a 6M